TN TN: Magnificent Meursault with Jasper Morris by 67 Pall Mall

Discussion in 'UK Wine Forum' started by Simon Wheeler, Jul 18, 2020.

  1. I'm catching up on a few notes, first up was last Mondays Meursault tasting on Zoom with Jasper and 67, which was really excellent although it did torpedo one of my dry days in style. It was a bit of a splurge for sure, but the chance to taste these wines side by side was too good to miss, also the club credit from it being closed during lockdown made it pretty much free :D

    MAGNIFICENT MEURSAULT WITH JASPER MORRIS BY 67 PALL MALL - 67@Home Zoom Tasting (13/07/2020)

    This was a great chance to taste a range of Meursault by some of the top producers as hosted and chosen by Jasper Morris.
    • 2010 Coche-Dury Meursault - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
      Mid gold, just a touch of spent match, ripe apple fruit, citrus, hazelnut, quite electric on the palate with great acidity, fabulous finish, so long
    • 2014 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
      Bottled under diam since 2013. Ripe and rounder than the Coche but light on the palate, it dances across the palate, youthful and energetic, lovely acidity on the finish which is really long and nice savoury
    • 2015 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
      Youthful and fairly light in colour, Jasper says this is a very elegant cru, there's a slight sweetness from the ripe fruit, and vintage most likely, plenty of citrus, mouthcoating with a fair amount of substance and a really long finish, mouth-tingling with waves of flavour and lots of energy. just lovely.
    • 2012 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
      Medium gold colour and deeper than the previous wines. Nutty, some evolution on the nose, more savoury than fruit, good mouth-filling flavour, long finish, decent length, overwhelmed by the other wines today, but a good wine.
    • 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
      Golden colour, rich nose of ripe orchard fruits, there's a fair weight here of ripe apple and yellow plums with a rounded texture which is cut beautifully by the cleansing acidity, quite intense, really great long finish, very impressive
    • 2014 Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
      the nose is a bit muted, compared to the other wines, its not ready to play yet, a bit of orchard fruit, quite mineral, flinty even but has plenty of extract, just quite tights and almost lean, someone mentioned rubber band, another iodine. going back to this sample an hour or so later it had opened up and was more expressive, I think this just needs a long snooze before its ready to reveal itself

    This tasting certainly lived up to the billing with an excellent set of wines, when your starter is a 10 year old Coche-Dury you know it's going to go well. The Jobard was a bit out classed by the very stiff competition but was still a lovely wine in itself. The Grivault was a wine I've never tasted before but only read about and would be one to revisit in a number of years. My favourite was the PYCM Charmes, the group had Coche, Lafon, Roulot and PYCM pretty even at the top, as you would expect.
    Posted from CellarTracker
     
  2. Awesome!... Agree with the Group about favorites... unfortunately, only get allocations of PYCM and Lafon... for which I am very grateful...
    Given new era, when do you think these wines are likely to reach their potential (assuming no premox)?
     
  3. I’m exceedingly jealous, thank you for sharing your notes.
     
    Alex Jagger likes this.
  4. I don’t have enough experience to comment really Antoine, all except the Grivault were approachable if a way from peak, maybe @Jasper Morris will pass by with his thoughts
     
  5. Only disappointment for me was Jobard, I have had better bottles
    PYCM outstanding and fully ready but not declining, Coche pretty much ready, Roulot possible to drink and will hold for a long time, Lafon possible to drink but for my taste 5 more years, Grivault needs a long time

    Thanks for tuning in, Simon and others. Plenty more scheduled!
     
  6. Is the Grivault Clos Des Perrieres now a wine worthy of its site?
     
  7. Many thanks for the notes Simon/Jasper what a great line up. The only one on the list I have is the Grivault and had that down to try one next year but looks like I need to put that off for a while.
     
  8. I didn't have time to do this before leaving for hols so the package is resting in my cellar; will be a good test of the Argon gas's capabilities!
     
  9. up to a point, Lord Blach
     
    Thom Blach likes this.
  10. I believe Jasper gives this estate the benefit of doubt, based on old bottles that are drinking well plus a consistency of style.
    If this estate hasn't changed much is recent times, wasn't it always rather patchy anyway?

    e.g., Matt Kramer, "Making Sense of Burgundy", 1990: "What should be the most brilliant jewel in Meursault, courtesy of exclusive ownership of the 2.3-acre Clos des Perrieres, as well as another parcel in Perrieres-Dessous, is instead a continuing frustration ... Recent vintages have been variable ... "

    On top of this, one now has to assume in these times the wines are not going to succumb to premox on the way to a potential maturity.

    Based on my last tasting of Clos des Perrieres 2012, which I may have incorrectly cast as mediocre, I would put this vineyard holding as one of the biggest wastes of good land for white Burgundy right up up there with Louis Latour CC.

    But ironically, with all this talk of terroir, one might argue the best wines currently from Meursault are not even 1er crus and not by any of the above: they are Arnaud Ente Seve du Clos and Petits Charrons and (in a completely different style) d'Auvenay Narvaux.
     
  11. Had a bit of experience with a few vintages of this. Certainly worth the risk for a tenner at the time but doubt one has that option these days...

    • 2005 Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (21/05/2011)
      Much more advanced than the bottle from the night before. Not shot yet but heading there quickly.
    • 2005 Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (20/05/2011)
      Popped and drunk over 2 hours. Light yellow colour indicated no POX thank goodness. That being said, wine was absolutely a point and I would drink now rather than hold. Wine of exquisite balance and poise that continued to reveal layers of compleixty as the evening wore on. Initially, some mint on the nose and palate, hints of custard cream and coconut. The tropical fruit flavours were very much in the background though, behind lots of crystal minerality. Long, elegant finish. Incredibly drinkable and enjoyable now whether to guzzle or reflect on in a leisurely manner.
    • 1990 Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (02/11/2010)
      First bottle from a case bought for the princely sum of £12 a bottle! Light gold colour. Not much on the nose. However, the palate was delightful. Obviously, fully resolved but no real oxidation yet. Indeed, this bottle showed confidently that it had several more years left. Lovely balance of sweet, supple (glycerin), slightly bruised apples and hint of mint. Really delicious.
    • 1995 Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (10/05/2010)
      Much younger than the bottle a week before. Lighter colour and fresher nose and palate. Not quite as complex as a result but still perfectly pitched. Again, lemon citrus covered in sweet honey, with a little meursault spiciness thrown in for good measure. These two bottles for a tenner each have been my bargains of the year! Can't wait to try the 90s.
    • 1995 Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (01/05/2010)
      Deep, golden colour on pouring. I was a little concerned it might be oxidised based on the colour and a sharp nose. However, with a few minutes it settled down. Clearly at the end of its life but what a spectacular finale it provided. Almost made me cry with frustration at the destruction that POX has wrought when you experience what a perfectly mature white burgundy like this can offer. Such delicate precision. Slight nuttiness, waves of lemon coated in sweet honey. Cerebral and perfect.
    Posted from CellarTracker
     
  12. Dan thanks for your notes ... the worry is these notes are 9+ years old. Tempus fugit. What Grivault post 1995 CdP do you want to drink now?
    The 2012 I tasted last year wasn't poxed, just disappointing.

    Of course the market seems to price CdP about £110 a bottle these days for just about all recent vintages.
    Which is either a bargain or a terrible waste of money depending whether you believe you are getting a great cru from a producer that will be the lucky good vintage that they happened to have fluked that will dodge all premox issues and be marvellous in 20 years ... or not.
     
  13. As per my previous comment, a good bet at a tenner...!
     
    Thom Blach likes this.
  14. NB Dan's wines appear to be the straight Perrieres rather than Clos des Perrieres.
     
  15. I had an 1986 Clos des Perrieres in Tokyo last year. The bottle was in great nick (as most old bottles in Japan always seem to be) and from the days before premox. It was ".... great from the start and just got better and better". More recent vintages have universally underwhelmed.
     
  16. If I completed a line from Kramer 1990, I partially quoted above: "Recent vintages have been variable, with 1986 a standout." :)

    I still think Kramer's book is a marvellous read or re-read ... a shame it never got reprinted.
    One can argue so much has changed, but it is perhaps more surprising that so much still holds true.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2020
  17. Just caught up with this. I'm glad I didn't read the thread before tasting, as I thought Jobard and Grivault (which on paper I expected to be overshadowed) showed pretty well! If anything was a (relative) disappointment it was perhaps the Lafon, although that's perhaps partly because the Coche and Roulot either side were readier. Wasn't completely sure about my PYCM sample at first although it sorted itself out after 15-20 minutes in the glass.

    MAGNIFICENT MEURSAULT - Zoom! (8/1/2020)
    • 2010 Coche-Dury Meursault - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
      Haunting nose, very savoury, and the palate is similar with toasted nuts, bruised apple, smoke, and then cream on the persistent finish. Mature and complex with just the right amount of acidity. Group WOTN (94 pts.)
    • 2014 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
      Nose slightly faint at first, with some exotic oak as well as reduction coming through more with air. Lovely on the palate - broad but also energetic, with brisk acidity and a bit of spice. Chewy, savoury, lactic finish. Still somewhat tight and youthful - JM says he'd keep another 4-5 years. (92 pts.)
    • 2015 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
      Neat, floral, appley nose. Slightly sweeter than #2, but similar mushroomy, lactic finish. Very clean and long. Fine boned for a 2015. Nothing really stood out about this, but the balance and elegance created a lovely impression. (93 pts.)
    • 2012 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
      Lovely golden colour. Very ripe, rounded, herbal nose with a hint of vanilla. Big and broad on the palate, very 2012. Dry and savoury and a compelling finish. I think some attendees thought this lacked precision, but for me it was balanced and really tasty. (93 pts.)
    • 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
      Slightly richer gold in appearance than some of the other wines tonight. A bit funky and barnyardy on the nose although this blows off with air, and it moves towards a savoury/ripe peach vibe Trademark PYCM precision on the palate, and plenty of amplitude as well. There's more fruit than the other wines tonight too. Long and chewy with spice on the finish. (93 pts.)
    • 2014 Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
      Very phenolic, floral, mentholated nose. On the palate there's the brisk 2014 character, a decent weight of fruit, but maybe a tad weak on the finish. JM thinks this needs time, but it's enjoyable already. (92 pts.)
     
  18. PS - I gave my wife a taste of the Coche and then had to fight her for it. After I explained that it costs over £500/bottle unless you go to France and drink it in restaurants, she is already talking about going back to Burgundy :)
     
  19. Do you think the samples held up ok Nick ? They must have been sitting for a couple of weeks
     
  20. That’s the spirit. :cool:
     
    Simon Wheeler and Nick Amis like this.
  21. Can't say if they deteriorated, but certainly still enjoyable! They were at 18C out of the box so I guess oxygen would be the main concern, and none of them seemed oxidised.

    I wonder if a bit more time contributed to me finding the PYCM and Grivault more comparable in enjoyment? As noted above the former was a bit more developed than I'd have liked and I didn't think the latter was as in need of more time.
     
  22. I kept one tasting pack from an early a bit longer than you, about a month I guess and half the samples seemed a bit tired, I am wondering how long they can keep, but I guess there’s a lot of variables.
    I don’t intend keeping them, just sometimes it takes a while to find time
     
  23. Yes that’s an interesting point Simon - one of the variables being the shipping temps, I’ve had more with two or three pink dots than not (small sample size admittedly) - also 67 seem to be shipping up to a week before now, so I think unless I’m going to be able to drink on or very close to the tasting date I’ll have to pass (rather than buying and taking they’ll be good until I get a chance to enjoy properly).

    Mind you I was expecting a delivery on Friday that didn’t turn up, wondering about storage temps over the weekend, in the past 5 mins I’ve had the “damaged in transit” msg from UPS. Ho hum.:rolleyes:
     

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