TN TN: Aperitifs at Domaine Jacques Selosse

Discussion in 'UK Wine Forum' started by Nick Amis, Jul 30, 2020 at 5:06 PM.

  1. APERITIFS AT DOMAINE JACQUES SELOSSE - Avize (7/27/2020)

    What had been advertised as a casual aperitif with M. Selosse for interested guests at the hotel turned out to be 75 minutes of philosophy, barrels and mould in the cellar followed by a tasting of quite a few current and future releases - great fun, although I wish my French was better!

    Space
    The effect of terroir
    • NV Jacques Selosse Initial - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
      Blend of vintages 13/12/11 - the current release. Trademark savour but with plenty of freshness too. Very long. (92 pts.)
    • NV Jacques Selosse V.O. Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
      Very similar to the Initial, and likewise this version is a blend of 13/12/11, but the V.O. is sourced from lower-yielding higher-altitude vines and, in this iteration, is zero-dosage. Additional richness is obvious, but the fact there's less dosage is not - testament to the quality of the fruit. The oxidation again feels well-balanced by zing and grip. (93 pts.)
    • NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Les Carelles - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
      Again this is a blend of 13/12/11. Creamy and seductive with a leesy, tangy finish. Wears its power lightly and thus there's more of an airy ease to it than the other cuvees shown tonight. My favourite wine of the tasting. (95 pts.)
    • NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
      The youngest vintage in this wine's blend is 2013. Spicy and serious compared to the various BdB tasted prior, but no less ready to drink. (93 pts.)
    Time
    Vintage variation
    • 2007 Jacques Selosse Champagne Premier Cru Millésime Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
      This has a fairly high percentage of Pinot in it. More savour and more bitterness than the NVs tasted prior make for a unique and compelling Champagne. Massive depth and length. My #2 tonight. (94 pts.)
    • 2008 Jacques Selosse Champagne Premier Cru Millésime Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
      The vintage's acidity stands out, and this wine has considerably more tension than any of the others tonight; Anselme Selosse says it is "Calvinist" and won't be ready to release until at least 2021. There's still plenty of compensating depth to the fruit, and an interesting saline umami character that we compared to kombu. (92 pts.)
    • 2009 Jacques Selosse Champagne Premier Cru Millésime Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
      Again the vintage character shines through - this is generous, extrovert, broad and meaty. I didn't find it as strangely compelling as the 2007 though. (93 pts.)
    Sweet
    Let's add some sugar
    • NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Exquise Sec - France, Champagne
      Mostly made with fruit from Oger that is substantial enough to handle 24g of dosage; created at the request of Bernard Loiseau and Pierre Gagnaire for a sweeter more gourmand style. The sugar is so well integrated that, if this hadn't been served after a number of Champagnes with little or no dosage, it wouldn't have been obvious. Floral, fun and well-made. (92 pts.)
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    Chardonnay growing adjacent to the Domaine
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    I'm a bit embarrassed about this, but everyone else did it first...
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  2. There is a subtle turnaround in philosophy at Selosse that I need to explore further, and it seems that the nuclear O2 evolution idea is diminishing.
     
  3. These wines were all pretty young, but I certainly didn't find any oxidised. I liked the fact that Anselme said when he took over he changed pretty much everything that his father had been doing, but apparently when his son takes control he won't be changing much...
     
  4. Nice tasting! I don’t get to drink many, but I’m a fan (sorry Steve ! ;) )
     
  5. Just a quick report on the hotel itself:

    - really nicely refurbished
    - excellent service
    - breakfast of excellent quality
    - garden was more like a big domestic garden than something that matched the hotel's stature, but good enough for a game of hide and seek with my kids
    - dinner was four courses with no choices and actually the weakest part of the offering, although it was all enjoyable eating and the gougeres were maybe the best I've had (and served with hunks of excellent quality Parmesan)
    - wine list was good, for Champagne, France generally and Italy too. Selosse bottles priced at French retail (so too expensive for me).
    - we drank the following with our meal:
    • NV Bouquin Dupont Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (7/27/2020)
      House Champagne at Selosse's hotel - it's from Avize and it's a BdB, it's pretty good and it's definitely good value. Lifted and a lot bubblier than Selosse's own Champagne, but it does have plenty of yeasty autolytic character. Oh so drinkable. (91 pts.)
    • 2012 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (7/27/2020)
      Complex and attractive nose - custardy, herbal, oceanic and smoky. Bright and energetic on the palate, with lemon and apple juice, but there's a smooth creamy texture that somehow works with the sharper flavours. Remains balanced and easy to drink over a number of hours and irrespective of its serving temperature, which is to its credit. (93 pts.)
    • 2016 Marcel Lapierre Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (7/27/2020)
      Bitter cherry fruit, dark fruits and dark chocolate on palate, pretty long - but also rather Bretty, and we didn't finish the bottle. (88 pts.)

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  6. I know... I've seen you with your "Jacques" crop-top...
     
    Simon Grant likes this.
  7. Nick,
    Somehow I missed this.
    Thank you for the excellent post.
    Probably the first time in a long while I have felt envious.....in a nice way.
     
    Tom Worthing and Nick Amis like this.

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