Regular followers of wine-pages will have noticed a disturbing lack of invective from me pro- or anti-natural wine. I'm basically a supportive sceptic, thinking some of the wines are very interesting and having really enjoyed many, whilst coming across my fair share of disappointing wines too. In a natural wine restaurant/bar in Paris at the weekend we had a fabulous goat's cheese quiche for lunch and from a blackboard giving little but price and colour, ordered a bottle of Cheverny ('La Bodice' Blanc, from Herve Villemade), the single most expensive wine from the dozen featured at aroun 45 Euros. What turned up was a dead-ringer, in every aspect, for a cheap Vinho Verde; nothing but significant spritz and lemon. I don't know the producer at all, and still wonder if this wasn't quite right, but though it washed down the quiche as well as any £5.99 Vinho Verde, it was a bewlidering disappointment for a "top" selection of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Chardonnay.