Gareth's Noize offline 18.07.20

Discussion in 'UK Wine Forum' started by Richard Zambuni, Jul 19, 2020.

  1. I admit to being a little nervous about getting back into the offline saddle, but once we were seated, the wine was poured and the conversation started to flow that nervousness dissipated. It was a lovely evening and Noize did us proud with well-executed food and excellent wine and food service. I've posted a couple of pictures of the food. I had cheese not dessert, so if anyone has a photo of the dessert please post it. The flights worked really well - there was plenty of diversity but also enough coherence that it was all very satisfying. The usual generosity of forumites was on display.

    Roederer Champagne Cristal 2008 ****(½)
    Laser-like focus and intensity on the nose and palate here and very much 2008 in character with the fruit riding a tautly stretched wire of acidity. Super-fresh and detailed on the palate with serious length. Nicely medium-weighted. Probably a little too young for prime-time but outstanding on the night.

    Rioja Reserva blanco Vina Tondonia Lopez de Heredia 1996 ***½
    This was a glorious bottle of Tondonia blanco – fresher than the 1999 drunk recently and closer in style to the taut and energetic 1998. This had the usual complexity and character of Tondonia blanco with bitter orange on the nose and the gently oxidative flavours on the palate. Nicely fresh. Held up in the glass over nearly three hours too, as did the Gran Reserva blanco.

    Rioja Gran Reserva blanco Vina Tondonia Lopez de Heredia 1994 ****½
    The Gran Reserva was a step up in complexity and intensity and as is often the case, a lighter colour than the younger 1996 Reserva. Pure and intense on the nose and the palate, with the oxidative character dialed back. There are hints of white flowers on the nose and a honeyed nature to the fruit paradoxically without any sweetness of course. This will go on and on, but I like the Gran Reservas at this age – there’s just so much energy and intensity to the wine. One of the great white wines of the world without doubt.

    Cornas Chaillot Allemand 2001 ***½
    There’s a very good colour here with an intensity that belies nearly two decades of age. Annoyingly, there is some brett on the nose which never really blows off and which suppresses the fruit aromatically. On the palate it is a **** wine though with a lovely line, a light yet layered texture and soil tones and smoked bacon rind woven through the very pure dark red fruit. The tannins are pretty well resolved. My other bottles of this vintage have not had any brett by the way,

    Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde René Rostaing 2003 ***
    This is a very enjoyable wine now at its apogee with seamless quite sexy fruit both on the nose and palate. The nose has some baking spices sprinkled into the lovely red berried aromas. The fruit on the palate is crystalline and pure without the soil tones you get in Cornas – and so very Côte-Rôtie in character. There is ripeness and luxe here and relatively low acidity, but blissfully no elevated alcohol or baked character to the fruit. There is the faintest hint of graininess to the remaining tannins, but they are very well resolved and I’m beginning to think that at the high end Côte-Rôtie did very well indeed in 2003. A Jim Agar Côte-Rôtie Clusel-Roch Grandes Places 2003 drunk last year was also very good indeed. The Rostaing Côte Blonde is one to drink now though I think.

    Hermitage Le Gréal Marc Sorrel 2004 ****½
    This was a superb, large-scaled wine with the broad shoulders of Hermitage setting it apart from the Cornas and the Côte-Rôtie. What I loved about these three wines is that they all spoke distinctly of their appellation. The wine is dense and gummy (in a positive way) on the palate with a really layered feeling. Gumminess is something I also detect in Cornas from time to time. There are notes of both tar and cinders towards the emphatic finish. This is a very accomplished wine indeed. Evolved and ready to go as are most N. Rhone 2004s. Marc Sorrel is probably only second to Chave when he gets it right.

    Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Napa Valley Robert Mondavi 1997 ***?
    I struggled a bit with this bottle. I have had some great Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wines over the years so I know that this can be a great wine, but there was a lot of brett on the nose, to the extent that it was very muddled. It seemed a bit brewed and mute on the palate too - there were some pleasant coffee notes but also hints of bitterness. Impossible to rate really – I will be interested to see if other diners got on better with this one.

    Château Léoville-Poyferré St. Julien 2001 ****
    Here was another poster child for the 2001 vintage. Immediately fragrant on the nose with cigar-box and tobacco leaf together with deliciously cool red fruits. That cool, crystalline red fruit runs on to the palate which is appetisingly fresh and lifted. Good length here but elegance is the order of the day. This is modern claret at its best.

    Château Rieussec Sauternes 2009 ***(½)
    Rich, bright, young, lifted and still essentially primary with notes floral notes combined with apple compote and bitter orange. Pungently fruited on the nose and palate.

    Château Rieussec Sauternes 2001
    More in the barley-sugar register this seemed quite evolved for a 2001. My notes seem to have tailed away at this point so no rating offered.

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    Last edited: Jul 19, 2020
  2. Great notes, Richard. What fizz are you reaching for tonight after 3 days of half decent bubbles?
     
    Richard Zambuni likes this.
  3. Wonderful notes Richard and a wonderful evening. I can’t top your notes on the wine - pretty much every one performed. Huge thanks to Gareth for organising, and to Matthieu and the team at Noizé for doing such a stellar job. Sparkling company and great conversation as always.
     
  4. Great evening on so many counts. Lovely to be back in London for a meal. Team Noize were outstanding. Great company, food and wine. Thanks in particular to Mr Powell for organising the evening.
     
    Leon Marks and Richard Zambuni like this.
  5. Sorry to have missed this gents, sounds lovely.
     
  6. Yep sounds great, looking forward to attending one before too long.
    Chris
     
  7. Great write up Richard, thanks.
     
  8. Sounds great but was it Covid secure? Were the tables well spaced? Was there any spacing at all between participants? Did the waiters wear masks?
     
  9. Richard’s notes capture the wines really well for me so I will not add anything further, except thanks to all participants for such lovely wines and company. Oh, and a special thanks to Leon, who I will be forever indebted to for his insistence on paying towards my pre-prandial martini solely for the reason that I would be indebted to him ;)

    Noize did an excellent job and I think the food was at the top of their game in many ways. Excellent bread too!
     
    Richard Zambuni likes this.
  10. ah...semi related, I do remember the sense of crushing realisation which followed the statement “if you can’t see the ****hole at a wimps table, that means you are the ****hole”...because I genuinely don’t remember sharing a table with someone who fits that description...
     
  11. Ah, we’ve not been sat together yet have we?
     
    Leon Marks and Gareth Powell like this.
  12. Thanks everyone. What a wonderful dinner. It was so good to see people again after what has felt like an eternity. The company was splendid and so convivial (well apart from the those two reprobates commenting above :p). Food and service was excellent as always and if anything I think the food has gotten better. The mullet and orzo pasta dish was exceptional. Yum!

    Wine wise I pretty much concur with Richard, the 08 Cristal was open for business and giving much pleasure but has tons of time to go, the whites were a perfect match for the food and so very Tondonia, and as ever the Gran Reserva showed younger than the Reserva!? The red Rhone flight was superb, so nice to taste across the appellations, and to see such typicity even from the hot 2003 vintage, Rostaing did very well indeed then. I probably rated this a little higher than Richard, and I loved its delicacy and elegance and the dash of Viognier gave it a lovely floral lift and it was only 13% to boot! The Leoville was just yum, so good, fairly classical with a little modernity thrown in, but it was superbly balanced and the tannins very well managed and it was very well poised between primary and tertiary with hints of what to come! Sadly the Mondavi was a little stewed and coffeed but still enjoyable. No notes from me on the sweet wines but I did try them which was good.

    Howard re social distancing and all that see previous thread I posed, but I felt very safe and at home and appreciated that it felt very normal. I for one would feel uneasy if staff had all been in visors or masks as it just jolts with the experience. I think 'higher-end' places will certainly go the maskless route as it is so much part of the service element. But appreciate people have different ideas around what they would like to see and would find safe.
     
  13. Sounds like a lovely dinner. I'm obviously not very used to reading a rating out of 5 as I had to re-read Richard's note on the Cornas Chaillot Allemand 2001 a few times before realising the note on the palate was a star rating, and not a starred out expletive.
     
  14. Thanks Gareth for organising this and thanks everyone, it's the first proper restaurant dinner since March. I did miss everyone.

    The food was rather impressive, probably the best of all my Noize visits. I think it's not just 'first time in a while' effect. Chinese restaurants goer like me used to think Noize gives slightly smaller portion but this time it's just right quantity.

    Wine-wise, I don't know that much about red. I didn't have many Rioja blanco before I truely like them both. It also paired with the starter dish extremely well. Cristal 08 performed as it should, more typical Cristal, and a bit better than the one we had in 2008 prestige fizz offline in CB I would say.
    I don't know much about Rhone besides several Beaucastel; I am told the Corna was a typical one, maybe Corna is not my thing. Saying that two days before this I shared some very lovely Cornas with Leon and Richard. Anyway what do I know about red. The second red flight just again showing I am not used to New World red. I stick with Bordeaux. The Rieussec 01 v 09 somehow confirmed the wisdom from Paul Day; maybe 2001 is really not a vintage as good as 2009 for sauternes. And Rieussec 01, as a once 100 points wine, is a bit all over the place now; when it's good it's quite good, but some bottle got medicinal flavour, which we have also seen in white Bordeaux offline a couple years ago in La Trompette (that one was much worse, despite with almost too light colour).

    Space-wise, as we were the only group using downstairs and most of space was not used, I personally would suggest Noize to expand the table further if possible. If we can do distance like in private room of La T it should be good enough. Of course it's also up to what Gareth and Mathieu think. I myself don't really mind very much, but I think for business it's also quite important to let most people feel mentally comfortable.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2020
    Thom Blach likes this.
  15. There are certainly doubts with Rieussec ‘01. For a long while I thought it was going to be the greatest vintage post ‘60. Now it seems unlikely.
     
  16. I truely hope 09 would go for a different route, as in the past several years Rieussec 09 seemly didn't change, keeping fresh and young.
    Maybe 09 is really better than 01, but hard to tell nowadays; wasn't N. Martin disppointed about Yquem 09 (two bottles) in that 2009 bordeaux tasting report? And Climens 09 starts to fall apart at least in halves format... I don't know, now I almost feel if a wine (not only sauternes) is drinking beautifully now I should just drink.
     
    Leon Marks likes this.

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