Burgundy WIMPS, La Trompette, Chiswick 24th May 2019

Discussion in 'UK Wine Forum' started by Neil Holland, May 24, 2019.

  1. What a cracking afternoon.

    Great company and lovely wines.

    Of our whites Carillon up the Puligny (Montrachet 1er Perrières) stood out with a hazelnutty precision and poise that I loved.

    In the reds bar a wobbly Ponsot (or pundit as predictive text suggested) we were lucky.

    The standouts being a Lamarche 2002 pair (VR 1er Malconsorts and Clos de Vougeot) and a Faiveley 1993 pair (Latricières Chambertin and Clos des Cortons). The former flight in particular came to life with the Guinea Hen, beans and ceps (with reduction) and the latter pair whilst enjoyable alone also improved with the fabulous lamb course.

    A lovely Goldkapsel Riesling to finish was fantastic.

    Great to meet Ron and Claude and catch up up with other wine pages muckers.

    Top job by Trompete with Don herding cats as calmly and politely as ever.

    N
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
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    Last edited: May 25, 2019
  3. Words to follow. Lamb outstanding
     
  4. BURGUNDY WIMPS — LE BOUT DU MONDE - La Trompette, London (24/05/2019)

    Gougères
    Wild trout and beurre blanc
    Guinea hen, beans and ceps
    Herdwick lamb, summer savoury and scapes
    • 1995 Domaine Ponsot Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée L'Abeille - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
      Very oxidised and generally past it on the nose. Sweeter fruited and promising on the palate, and very Ponsot, but it craters quickly. No. NR (flawed)
    • 1993 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
      Magnum. Quite dark fruited and pure. Dense, quite glossy, still a little dry on the finish. A touch of licorice. Lightens and rounds on the finish. A dark fruited density and a surprising glossiness. Getting there. Another five years in mag? ***(*) (93 pts.)
    • 1993 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
      This has really come on over the past six years. Quite savoury and rounded on the nose.. Deep and plush and really quite rich. Just lovely. Densely silky. A touch savoury on the finish. Really, really lovely. ***** (95 pts.)
    • 2002 Domaine Francois Lamarche Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
      Consistent with a bottle last year. This is lush, quite rich, very polished, it with a depth and persistence too. Very long. Lovely. ***** (95 pts.)
    Strawberries and elderflower
    • 1990 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
      Light gold. A touch of kerosine. More aperitif than pudding — just doesn’t have the sweetness to be a contender. Nicely fresh though, long with a touch of ripeness across the mid palate, but shape and acidity rather than sweetness. **** (91 pts.)
    Posted from CellarTracker
     
  5. Hear, hear on the lamb...
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
    George Marshall likes this.
  6. Glad I was having a colonoscopy this afternoon rather than attending this.

    PS Too much information?
     
  7. Prop forwards are a breed apart.
     
    Neil Holland likes this.
  8. upload_2019-5-24_18-47-42.jpeg

    Here’s George on the other side of the lens
     
  9. Could bore you with my wine list, but take away a lovely lunch, great food and each wine a delight in its own right.
     
    George Marshall likes this.
  10. Perhaps. You were missed. It's been too long, sir!

    (Bon courage)
     
  11. Hard to fault Simon's notes, as ever. I thought more of the Clavelier than did he, indeed I thought it a brilliant little Musigny, and I was very disappointed with my Laurent which was a decent drink but had simply nothing of the cool poise and elegance of the previous two bottles.
    What a privilege this is, though, in every way. I would be astonished if there were any other restaurant in the world which would or could welcome a bunch of wine bibbers with such grace, skill, generosity and enthusiasm(not to mention the astonishingly reasonable tariff). The wine service was perfect with everything at the right temperature,a not inconsiderable undertaking, and the food quite excellent in both concept and execution. In particular the elderflower tart was of really startling, world class brilliance of a kind one rarely sees. I am no puddingist but I recognise quite exceptional talent when I see it and this may have been the true highlight of the lunch!
     
  12. Yes, the dessert with Mike's botrytis Vire-Clesse was one of life's peak experiences - utterly lovely. Longer post to follow...
     
  13. A wonderful lunch for many reasons - lovely company on my table, excellent food and service as always, and a good, characterful, and typical showing from all but one of the wines in our line-up. Thanks as ever to Don for his superb organizational skills.

    Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Clos des Murées Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard 2014
    Pear, clove, and a bit of oak on the nose. Nicely open on the palate, supple and ready to go. Fresh and lively but likely to mature early. Aperitif weight Chassagne. Pleasant. ***

    Beaune 1er cru blanc Les Champs Pimont Domaine Jacques Prieur 2011
    Nicely weighted Beaune 1er cru with bright acidity, good cut and line. Straightforward and tending towards mature flavours. Nicely savoury at the finish. ***½

    Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru les Combettes 1999 Louis Jadot en magnum
    A lovely nose of spiced pear, pastille yellow fruits and a hint of grapefruit. All of a piece and in that perfect place between freshness and secondary flavours. Perfect weight, lovely focus and outstanding precision. Finishes with confit yellow stone fruit. Really lovely. Clear ****

    Clos St. Denis grand cru Henri Jouan 2011
    Quite modern in style with crisp, pastille raspberry fruit later tending towards morello cherry. Lighter in weight than some grands crus, but attractively precise and savoury. Finishes with a sour cherry note. Drinking well for a 2011 grand cru. ****

    Chassagne-Montrachet rouge 1er cru Clos St. Jean Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard 2009
    A light colour in the glass and also lighter on the palate than the other reds in this flight. Tasting fully mature with a complete absence of tannin. Gentle, light, but not inconsequential. A touch of rusticity at the finish. ***

    Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes Domaine Alain Burguet 2005
    Wow – I really liked this rather burly, bold rendition of Gevrey-Chambertin. Burguet wines always have a deep colour and this is no exception. There is plenty of dark morello cherry on the palate alongside a spicy note and some soil tones. Ripe and long but without heaviness. Superb for a village wine. Will age effortlessly, but this is enjoyable now. ****

    Vosne-Romanée 1er cru les Suchots Domaine Robert Arnoux/Arnoux-Lachaux 2004
    Dull and tired on the nose and palate. Gently oxidised. A poor showing. NR

    Clos Vougeot grand cru Louis Jadot 2000
    This is a big wine, but time has tamed its burliness and this is now well into its secondary phase. Full, broad, with a little bit of earthiness and iron on the palate. Very deep flavours for a 2000 Côte de Nuits. Drinking well now. ***½ tending to ****

    Clos St. Denis grand cru Joseph Drouhin 1995
    Relatively high-toned on the nose, with that metallic 1995 imprint on the palate. Way behind the Henri Jouan in terms of enjoyment. Not tired in any way but narrow and clipped in the way that most 1995s are. Fully mature ***

    Corton-Greves grand cru Louis Jadot 2001
    Opened as a back-up to the Arnoux-Lachaux VR les Suchots 2004, this was a fine rendition of Corton with deep, spicy, earthy red fruit with hints of both raspberry and sour cherry. Lovely length here. Perfect weight and effortless length. ****

    Croft Vintage Port 1966
    A lovely way to finish lunch – nicely mature as you would expect for a 53 year-old wine, but there’s plenty of plush mulberry fruit on the palate. A super wine. ***½ to ****

    Neil H was kind enough to give me a glass of the Faiveley Clos des Cortons 1993 to take back to our table and I thought that it was a clear ****½ wine and drinking well now although in magnum you could continue to enjoy this for another 15-20 years.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
  14. Brilliant lunch from start to finish (trout to tart...) with a nice progression through white meat and red meat. The wines were gorgeous with a really great LP Josephine 2002 (I felt like Napoleon back from a winning campaign...f..k Wellington...and returning to his love life) to then a "trout treat" with a delicious Jaqueson Rully 1er 2012 (I need to buy this under the radar...) and 2 mature Meursault (Genevrieres Bichot and Bizouard something, somebody drove Alex to open his spare despite the initial wine being only 2003, not faulty to my mind...). We then moved to Guinea hen with some great wines especially a great asparagus Chevillon Les ST Georges 2004. a delicious Engel Les Brulees 2002 and a quite advanced and drinking well 2010 Chambolle Hudelot Baillet.
    Latricieres was corked which meant we were treated to a Maignen les St Georges 2000 and a Simon Bize Savigny 1er something with a great "2 cooking" lamb and with the wonderful desert, we got a really mango sweet light Jurancon that was really appreciated despite the increasing C2H5OH blood concentration...

    This did not prevent me from going around tables to taste a few further jewels: Fourrier Goulots 2002 and Solon 2007 young and with nice purity and density, Lamarche Malconsorts 2002 and clos Vougeot which made me more appreciative of this producer, some special Clavelier Combe orveaux 2004 and some great 93 Faiveleys (I referred the Latricieres but both deserved plaudits...) and some great sweet wines whose names escape me as I was a bit ripe... (one from Burgundy...)

    Well, I now need to chill out a bit, go on a diet and prepare for the next binge.
     
  15. Know the feeling! Not looking forward to 03:45 alarm tomorrow (but once I get to the beach fully plan to chill out!)
     
    Alex Lake and George Marshall like this.
  16. Can’t add to Antoine’s post above other than many many thanks to tablemates for their generosity and good company, Alistair for sharing the sublime tastes of Fourrier, Don for his efforts in organising us, and the wonderful staff of La Trompette for exceptional service, warmth of welcome and frankly astoundingly good food, lamb especially so.

    Chapeau!
     
  17. Simon expertly pieced together and articulated the wares of each of the wines on our table. Generally spot on but like Thom I was much more enthralled with the Clavelier. More generally on Le Bout De Monde, with some of the some of the preeminent experts on whys, wherefores and enigmas of burgundy, the air waves were full of rich anecdotes, analysis and observations. The three flights of burgundy took on us a magical mystery tour and did most of the talking for themselves, lit up by the culinary wizardry from the kitchens behind us.

    2010 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières

    Two potential sources of trouble: vintage and producer. However any trepidation was assuaged by the pale, glinting, hue of this bright, vibrant, wine, which had a superb finish. Drink/hold.

    2009 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain

    The colour was noticeably darker .. but not dark. It had a brittleness which suggested that you might suddenly see white smoke coming out of the engine compartment; but it held together well and went especially well the superb trout dish. A ten year old from a star producer, but needs drinking up.

    2004 Domaine Bruno Clavelier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d'Orveaux

    Claude brought this I think to make a point. No sign of ladybirds or green meanies; just a wine of exquisite poise and delicacy. Thom likened this to a junior Musigny. Quite captivating, accentuating the feminine side of red burgundy. Drink/hold.

    2002 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

    A very different proposition, with meaty heft, spicey overtones, and deceptive power and richness. A tour de force. You can broach this now, but it has a fine future. Drink/hold.

    2001 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

    By comparison the 2001 was listless; though there was nothing really wrong with it, and it did pull itself up towards the end of the lunch.

    2001 Dominique Laurent Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes "Sui generis"

    Apparently not the best bottle of this either, but a treat nonetheless with a wayward personality; savoury beefy notes and beetroot, this wine became more intriguing and seductive over the afternoon. A thrill. Drink/hold.

    1995 Domaine Ponsot Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée L'Abeille

    John Toshack had probably been out at the pub the night before so Bill Shankley substituted him with David Fairclough:

    2002 Francois Lamarche Clos Vougeot 2002

    Immediately Fairclough was making his presence felt in the opposition’s penalty box. Big, rich, luxurious and exuberant like the 02 Malconsorts this has a great future, and was if anything even more backward. Hold.

    1993 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley Magnum

    Lifted, vibrant, racy, very different to Latricieres; no hurry with this especially out of large format. A treat. With the magnum Neil generously supplied there were plenty of inquisitive bees around this honey pot. Drink/hold.

    1993 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin

    Spice bazaar, exotic teas, rich and full on the palate, just mesmerising from start to finish and wine of the day. Drink/hold.

    1990 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel

    Overwhelming petrol notes, a lot of fun to drink, but hit the canvas against a deliciously sweet dessert, which a good sauternes would have tackled with alacrity.

    I must finally congratulate Stamatis and Team La T for keeping the wines at the optimal temperature throughout, no mean feat with a full house on a warm day and therefore plenty of body temperature.
     
  18. I can recommend some stuff for an instant diet...
     
  19. My first WIMPS was, predictably, a very enjoyable experience - thanks to the others on Les Berthom for their wine and company, Don for his organisation and friendly welcome, and the legion of staff who unobtrusively made everything happen on the day. It was a shame I had to run off at the end to put my kids to bed as it would have been nice to meet more of you in person.

    Our table was quite white-focused (we had six, plus Champagne) but I actually thought that the reds showed better, particularly the Clos des Lambrays, which belied the poor reputation of its vintage (2004) to give an exemplary demonstration of the best side of red Burgundy. I was also taken by the less-heralded 2002 Ponsot MSD, which again wrapped up a number of lovely and typical attributes in a tempting package.

    The two flights of whites were made up of wines that were individually enjoyable to drink but didn't quite hang together as groups, being by turns fresh/youthful, oaky/powerful, savoury/unusual, reductive/fruity and mature/oxidative. Looking at this more positively, the afternoon provided a real tour around the different styles of white Burgundy!

    Finally, my WOTD was probably the botrytis Vire-Clesse mentioned above, in part because it absolutely sang with the food.

    IMG_20190524_181357_424.jpg
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  20. Thanks to my fellows on Les Berthom accepting me as a late entry.

    I was pleased with the Charlemagne 2013 that got us underway, it took 10 minutes in the glass to get going but once it did it proved to be quite superior to the 2012 of the same bottling I took to a previous Wimps......Dr P had predicted as much.

    The stunners of the day for me were the White MSD, which had the most phenomenal , unusual and ever changing nose to the point I was smitten even before tasting.
    The GC Clos des Lambrays showed its class even in a less revered vintage it was confident and admirable rather than affectionate.
    And who knew that the region could deliver such a sweetie?

    I have no understanding as to why The Don puts himself through the monthly towing frowing and general pratting about that we subject him to, but surrounded by a sea of delighted faces cossetted and pampered by Patra and team La T I am just so thankful that he does.
     
  21. Glad you enjoyed it Ray! Not wishing to hijack a Burgundy thread, but the sectors from Avize southwards on the CdB have produced brilliant Blanc de Blancs in 2013: proper long hang time, late harvest chardonnays like the 1990's. Load up!
     
    Raymond Tilney likes this.
  22. An excellent day by your musings. I must say George's pictures are much improved and portray the tucker and restaurant in great detail and in excellent light. And of course it all happens because Don unselfishly organises.
     
  23. And to those on our table who said Chelsea Flower show tickets were unlikely.. no walk up, pay and walk in.
    Happy days
     
  24. I only tasted a couple of wines from other tables, a Chevillon Les St Georges 04 which was pure essence of asparagus just when I thought the 04 malaise had definitively become a thing of the past and a superbly cool and aristocratic Jadot Corton Greves 01. It is somehow too easy to take the high standards at Jadot for granted.
     
    Leon Marks likes this.
  25. Excellent lunch and a good foray into the diverse range of burgundy styles as I think we had them all.

    The MSD as Ray says was really interesting. It actually wasn’t typically burgundy (I’m told) and the initial nose was like nothing else though it changed. A shame you can’t buy this anywhere as would be worth a case.

    Some lovely other wines, though we had a heavily oxidised White and Red which for me were too far maderised to be consumed and my 1998 Mersault was very (funkily) different to the first bottle I had and remained unfinished.

    The Lambray I did like however and delivered on a few levels. This gave a useful insight into red burgundy I feel.

    The Vire Clesse sweetie showed up better than I remember the first bottle though maybe I had drunk more (though with subtle refrain I was in better shape than normal) but it has less of a minor harsh note and was fantastic.
    The dessert by the way was utter knockout. The lightness achieved on the tart and rest of dish was excellent but I feared it may be too sweet for the wine. All worked very well.

    Antoine the burgundy sweet you had (which I must admit was very pleased by) was the Bongran Vire Clesse Botrytis 2006 (2017 release) .
    It’s a Burgundy Chardonnay sweetie and one I’ve been waiting for this event to bring it.
     

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