Arrrrgh. I’ve opened hundreds of bottles of white Burgundy since one as good as this. First vintage after the domaine split I think, and not the best year, but you know... Puligny Perrieres. All the same, bound to be a disappointment. Sure to be advanced, or just dull. And then right from the off... The whole experience. It smells of lots of things, as David Strange once said. Honeyed white flowers. Cream. White truffle. Lime peel. Blah blah. There’s a lot going on. And it’s in perfect, pirouetting balance. Better as it warms up, and the flavours move up the spectrum of richness. Length to burn, but no heaviness. Open, expansive, but somehow controlled. Amazing. Enough said. The erratic stimulus is the most conditioning.