Weekend drinking 11-13th Sept

  • 2012 Julien Pilon Côte-Rôtie La Porchette - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (11/09/2020)
    Dense full ruby. Nose of blackcurrant pastille and raspberry with a hint of blackberry, a little less expressive than previous bottle. Violets too. Mid weight dark red fruit, good acidity, lovely balance. Just a little structural bite, becoming more acidity led, on the finish. **** (91 pts.)
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Now do I like that label or do I hate it. I'm not entirely sure.
 
This lot last night with a curry box from Aktar Islam:

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The Pol, with a couple of years bottle age, was superb for aperitif with some poppadoms. Lanson Rosé was fairly young and initially seemed a bit clunky after the class of the Pol, but was much improved by the aloo samosa and onion pakora which rounded the edges off it. The Speigel Pinot Gris was a stunning match to the various vegetarian dishes and also the fish main, the spices just enhanced the aromaticity of the wine and vice versa. The slight sweetness of the Palazzo Della Torre worked really well with the kid kofta and for me was at the ideal age (2014) with still plenty of fruit but nicely mellowed.
 
I’m sure it’s me Richard, I’ve tried a number of his wines over the years and I seem to be in a minority of one on here in being immune to their undoubted charms. I recognise the winemaking style immediately and find the “struck match” or “reductive winemaking” overpowering with, well SO2 I’m afraid. I don’t find this on Bernard Moreau’s wines so my money goes there when I need to stock up my minuscule stocks of white Burgundy. I am very far from being any sort of Burgundy expert so I’m happy to concede my ignorance and poor taste due to the overwhelmingly positive reviews his wines get on here from aficionados like your good self. Vive la difference!
 
They do not in general show well in proximity to the very best examples of white burgundy, which doesn't mean at all that they are not good wines.
 
Tried a Francois Feuillet Chambolle Musigny 2014 last night - double decanted but this wine wasn't having it - very surly, the vaguest hint of dark fruit on the nose and what I imagine engine oil might taste like on the palate. So re-corked to try tonight. A glass of Foundry Grenache Blanc 2018 - quite a fat and spritzy wine. Very simple and okay. Ended up opening a Levet 2005 Maestria Cote Rotie which was so so - a big bruiser of a wine without any really pleasing notes that didn't develop at all through the evening. Think I should have chosen beer last night.
 
We opened a 2007 Te Mata Bullnose Syrah last night, some reviews made me think it may have been kept too long, but happily those fears were not bourne out. The colour was bright and jewel like with only a little fading at the rim. There was juicy black currant fruit with some rusty ferrous notes and a touch of soft leather, maybe it could have had a touch more acidity, but it was a lovely elegant bottle that was drinking well.
 
Those Levet 2005s are taking forever, Nigel; I've sworn off mine for the foreseeable years. It may well mean they eventually turn into someone special, in which case we can kick ourselves again for the ones we opened too early. The 06s have been enjoyable for years, in contrast.

2005 Pinot Gris, Rangen de Thann, Zind Humbrecht last night which went very well alongside an Aktar Islam / Opheem curry box (thank you Andrew for alerting me to them). I thought it was probably foolish to have wine at all, and that it would merely be the least offensive combination, but it did actually perform the trick of matching in a way that enhanced. We didn't finish the bottle, which is often the way with Z-H. No matter: it'll survive in the fridge I expect.

Tonight a dinner party in the village, only the second sociable meal we've had since lockdown. The hostess is a fan of port, so it'll be a rare excuse for that; specifics to be decided.
 
Those Levet 2005s are taking forever, Nigel; I've sworn off mine for the foreseeable years. It may well mean they eventually turn into someone special, in which case we can kick ourselves again for the ones we opened too early. The 06s have been enjoyable for years, in contrast.

2005 Pinot Gris, Rangen de Thann, Zind Humbrecht last night which went very well alongside an Aktar Islam / Opheem curry box (thank you Andrew for alerting me to them). I thought it was probably foolish to have wine at all, and that it would merely be the least offensive combination, but it did actually perform the trick of matching in a way that enhanced. We didn't finish the bottle, which is often the way with Z-H. No matter: it'll survive in the fridge I expect.

Tonight a dinner party in the village, only the second sociable meal we've had since lockdown. The hostess is a fan of port, so it'll be a rare excuse for that; specifics to be decided.
Indeed the 06 Peroline has been drinking well for years. That curry sounds nice - must order a box.
 
Friday night's wines -
Meerlust Rubicon 2016. 49% Cabernet Sauvignon; 28% Merlot; 20% Cabernet Franc; 3% Petit Verdot. Double decanted a couple of hours prior to tasting. Inky black colour with red showing at the edge on a good swirl. Wow - quite a formidable nose of ripe blackcurrant and blackberry. Some leather and spice there too. Full, intense black fruit on the palate with some spicy toast and tobacco leaf. Plump tannins giving a good backbone followed by a slightly acidic finish. Could easily do with another 5-10 years.
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Riesling Zotzenberg Grand Cru Vendanges Tardives 2007, Domaine Rietsch, Alsace. 50cl bottle. Golden yellow colour. Slightly restrained nose of confit fruits, mandarin and passion fruit. More manderin in the mouth. Not as rich as expected but showing lovely balance and lightness. More candied fruit coming through and finishes with a very clean citrus note. This went well with cheese but would also be a lovely aperitif, which I'll try tomorrow with the rest of the bottle.

Riesling GC Zotzenberg VT 2007 Domaine Rietsch Web.jpg
 
Those Levet 2005s are taking forever, Nigel; I've sworn off mine for the foreseeable years. It may well mean they eventually turn into someone special, in which case we can kick ourselves again for the ones we opened too early. The 06s have been enjoyable for years, in contrast.

2005 Pinot Gris, Rangen de Thann, Zind Humbrecht last night which went very well alongside an Aktar Islam / Opheem curry box (thank you Andrew for alerting me to them). I thought it was probably foolish to have wine at all, and that it would merely be the least offensive combination, but it did actually perform the trick of matching in a way that enhanced. We didn't finish the bottle, which is often the way with Z-H. No matter: it'll survive in the fridge I expect.

Tonight a dinner party in the village, only the second sociable meal we've had since lockdown. The hostess is a fan of port, so it'll be a rare excuse for that; specifics to be decided.

Thanks Andrew, but also Jon for the reminder that spurred me into action. First curry box en-route to us.
 
Tried a Francois Feuillet Chambolle Musigny 2014 last night - double decanted but this wine wasn't having it - very surly, the vaguest hint of dark fruit on the nose and what I imagine engine oil might taste like on the palate. So re-corked to try tonight. A glass of Foundry Grenache Blanc 2018 - quite a fat and spritzy wine. Very simple and okay. Ended up opening a Levet 2005 Maestria Cote Rotie which was so so - a big bruiser of a wine without any really pleasing notes that didn't develop at all through the evening. Think I should have chosen beer last night.

A root day, Chez P :( Useful warning re the 14 Feuillet, for which thanks.
 
After some average to poor to faulty wines last night needed something half decent so was a risk to open the 2015 Rhys Horseshoe Chardonnay since a few weeks back I did t really take to the 2012 as just too much overt oak.
Apparently they changed the regime and stopped ageing in barrel all the way until bottling and moved to steel tanks after a year. Still can taste the oak and it’s clearly got some malo but so much better. Very much in a burgundy style with great fruit and that touch of Cali with bags of depth and flavour. Very good indeed.

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I must say I’ve found it relatively rare to have a poxed or faulty bottle.
Tonight managed to get 3 which is the same as the last year +
Started with a recent purchase
Haskil Anvil SA Chardonnay, rather muted but a very nice wine with opening vanilla oak. Very much a good weekday (Wednesday / Thursday) wine. Enjoyed by all.

Then a Cruse Wine Chard 2014 Deep in Colour promising some oak and richness. No, utterly poxed and down the sink.

Next up Lioco 2012 sonoma coast Chardonnay. Not utterly awful but pretty badly flawed and half a glass in with two opinions. Down the sink.

Moet 2012 - not from same source (probably Sainsbury’s last year and been in storage since) Seemed a touch animal and bretty / cheesy on the nose and followed with an odd palate and not one I remember when tasted perhaps a year ago. Got a second opinion as was worried my palate was struggling given I’d put two bottles down the sink but no they agreed it was awful. Down the sink.

Best result was the two bottles of Blees Ferber Eroica 2014 sparkling Riesling. Ladies finished it with no issue, fresh as a daisy.

Marc Hebrert 2014 base. (From memory). Offers plenty on nose but mid and finish a little lacking. Very nice and punching very fairly at its price

Gin and tonic was needed..
Oooo I didn't realise Blees.Ferber did a sparkling, very impressed with their others as vfm options.
 
Triangles de Guffens is a blend of Chardonnay from Mâcon, Semillion from Bordeaux and Viognier from Rhone. I didn’t get as much Chardonnay as the others and thought that the Viognier was the dominant grape. Fun wine and definitely eclipses its lowly VDF stature.

Ganevat was fun and easy going as well, very pale colour with a spritzy character and lots of strawberries. From bought grapes in Beaujolais interestingly enough.

I liked the Arpepe a lot more than the others, started off with an alcoholic nose but blossomed into something that resembled a pinot. Very high acid that is drying.

The two Spanish reds were very natural and made from indigenous grapes. A bit too funky for me but one of them was very interesting with its huge salinity given it’s made next to the sea on the Canary Islands. Again very high acid here.

By tasting these I also got to know what I value in the red wines that I like - structure, which was missing across all the reds. Definitely time and place still though for these.

 
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The best vintage of cartology I’ve tasted. Quite rich nose of aniseed, toast and tropical fruits. The palate is so precise it makes you shudder. The acidity is pitch perfect and the concentration on the mid-palate is astonishing. There’s a honeyed beeswaxy thing on the finish alongside searing grapefruit acidity. But it’s all in balance. Seamless. Back up the truck.
 
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