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A highly personal set of experiences, thoughts and recommendations for wine and food related travel around the world: wineries, restaurants, hotels, shopping and more |
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Tuscany address file Wine and food loving wine-pages visitors have helped me flesh-out details of the best places if holidaying in the Tuscany area.
On my last trip to the region I enjoyed a visit to the Radda in Chianti estate of Terrebianca (tel: +39 0577 738 544). Terrebianca came to my attention with the 1993 vintage, when Robert Parker gave their
moderately-price 'Campuccia' super-Tuscan wine 93 points. I ate really well in the countryside around Greve, south of Florence, but took no notes unfortunately!
The well-known Cantinetta Antinori in the Piazza Antinori
is comfortable and also very good, though quite expensive for basically simple food. As it is owned by the Antinori estate, their wines feature prominently of course (tel: 055 292 234). I can recommend Touring the Wine Country, Tuscany by Maureen Ashley, and the very useful web site at Knowital.com for further reading. The following tips come from wine-pages visitors who love this region and its wines. My thanks to all contributors.
Eating and Sleeping Regis Mussolin: We were in Tuscany in Oct 2000. That might not be the best time of the year in terms of weather, but it is relatively quiet, prices are lower, and estates more available. The excellent book "The Wines of Tuscany" lists estates by DOC, with a description, address & phone. Also listed are the Enotecas (wine bar & shops) where one can buy wine as in any shop, but you can also drink some with a meal for a modest charge. Unfortunately there is no map in this book to help you find the various places. Heading south from Florence one comes to Greve in Chianti. In the central square, Piazza Matteotti, you'll find Mangiando Mangiando (tel: 0558 546 372), a nice little restaurant serving delicious pastas. There is also a magnificent delicatessen with a breathtaking choice of hams & sausages. Still going south you will come to a really nice village called Panzano. On top of the hill overlooking Chianti, this is a charming and typical Chianti village. For those how can afford it, the Hotel Villa Le Barone (tel: 055 852 621) is of a very high standard. Everyone should stop at Enoteca Baldi in Piazza Bucciarelli (tel: 055 852 843) to have a bite and a bottle. There is a very good selection of wines, including some Gajas & even rare French wines. Bryan Collins: for serious foodies, Enoteca Pinchiorri in Via Ghibellina, Florence (tel: 055 242 757) is arguably the most famous restaurant in Italy - and their wine list is probably more impressive than the food, which is somewhat overly pretentious for my taste, although the guys at Michelin love it to bits. Richard Weaver: These are more rural - I stayed in the country outside Siena two years ago and had the best holiday of my life. If you're near Colle di Val d'Elsa and have a forgiving credit card, 'Arnolfo' in Piazza Santa Caterina (tel: 0577 920 549) was fantastic when I was there in 1999. There's a brilliant menu gastronomica but it's London prices all the way. The range of Grappa was unbelievable. Also in Colle, Antica Trattoria in Piazza Arnolfo (tel: 0577 923 747) is a bit more reasonably priced and has a good list of Tuscan wines. Sitting outside in the summer is fantastic. If you're in the small hill town of Monteriggioni both restaurants will do you a great meal, provided you like boar and truffles. 'Il Pozzo' in Piazza Roma (tel: 0577 304 127) is particularly recommended for the porcini tortelli covered in butter and black truffle. Both had good wine lists. Bill Nanson: I visited Montalcino and Brunello in September 2001. Many ‘Enotece’ have wines open to taste, but might charge you 10,000 - 20,000 ITL to taste if you don’t buy something. Having returned home, I can see that prices are a mixed bag. Buying recent vintages of ‘middle-rank’ wines can be much cheaper from the producer than at home, often due to their supply agreements prices are the same in the local wine merchants as at the producers. The biggest differences are for ‘better’ wines, which are harder to find. Here they might be considerably cheaper in the UK if you can find some. One of the best things about eating out in Montalcino is that the £50 bottle you were fondling in the wine-shop is still only £50 in the restaurant - very little mark-up was obvious. The menus are similar in all the establishments, but quality varies a bit. I may have been lucky, as the worst quality I experienced was merely ‘very good’ but two restaurants were ‘outstanding’. The restaurant Taverna dei Barbi in Podernovi (tel: 0577 841 200) where we stayed was one, with a selection of the estates wines going back as far as a 1985 Reserva for 450,000 ITL or around £150 ! My favourite was Il Grappolo Blu in Montalcino centre (Via Scale di Moglio, tel. 0577 847 150). Beautifully cooked food and a really comprehensive wine list that includes many half bottles, so you can experiment. If you push the boat out and go for that £50 bottle, your meal for 2, including 4 courses, water, coffee & grappa will come to £80-90.
Wines and things to do Regis Mussolin: In Florence I recommend you to go at the "Piazza della Repubblica" were you'll find a huge library. Among the wide selection of maps there is a very good selection of wine books in various languages. Going south toward Siena we stopped in Greve in Chianti, a very nice little town. Arriving in the village, the small wooden house on the left hand side of the road is the tourism office. It sells interesting maps of Chianti Classico with all the wine estates marked. At the far end of the central square there is 'Enoteca del Gallo Nero', Via C. Battisti (tel: 055 853 734) which has a very fine selection of Tuscan wines.
Each tasting shot is debited according to the wine price (most Brunello being more expensive than Chianti for example). Once the card is empty you can have it topped-up. The atmosphere is great too, and in the vaulted basement there are tables, chairs, and even PCs to surf the internet. There are also cheeses and hams for tasting. Before buying any wines go across the street to the small shop and compare prices, but 'Le Cantine' seems to offer really good QPR and great advice. You might well be pointed to some less well-known 'Super-Tuscans' that offer very good value, like the Vigorello from San Felice. In terms of visiting wine estates, we really enjoyed the visit at Castello di Verrazzano (tel: 055 854 243), were Gino the tour guide is a real showman. The estate is beautiful and you'll get to see all the cellars, Balsamic vinegar production and Vino Santo production. Really great place - just don't eat there; it is a bit expensive. Castello di Querceto (tel: 055 85 921) is also a nice place and they rent apartments, as does Villa Vignamaggio (tel: 055 854 661) and many others. If you have more time you can go West and visit Livorno, a lovely port town with interesting architecture in the main avenue. Not far from there is the estate of Tenuda San Guido, and you can stop by Pisa on your way back to Florence... Bill Nanson: in Montalcino and Brunello the local tourist office will supply you with a list of all the wine producers, showing their location on a map, address and telephone numbers. Every small road junction has the brown tourist signs telling you which producer you will find down that particular alley. I chose some larger names to visit. Based on the experience of the producer where I was based (Barbi) which had a wine-tasting shop open most of the day and guided tours of the cellars several times per day mid-week, I expected a smooth journey. Altesino could see us only the next day, Frescobaldi (IGT's Luce, Lamiaone and Brunello Castel Giocondo) were building a shop that would be open in another month, otherwise here was a card of a shop in Montalcino where to buy! Many had private road signs that I didn't go down, only to be told later that I still could, plus some others who would only entertain trade professionals with an appointment. If you don't know any Italian, I suggest patience and setting aside more than one day.
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