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video review: wine of the week

13th January 2013

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Mas des Mas, 'Zucco Vineyard' Pinot Blanc 2011, France
Whilst a grape variety that most would concede is not a first team player, Pinot Blanc does occasionally acheive greatness, often in the vineyards of Alsace in the cool northeast of France. Here, enterprising winemaker Jean-Claude Mas has planted a tiny, experimental Pinot Blanc vineyard in an old etaing or lagoon in the Languedoc. He says the vineyard enjoys particularly cool conditions, and indeed the wine has plenty of freshness but also a baked apple pie quality on the nose, with creaminess as well as a touch of lemon jelly, and just a hint of spice. On the palate there is a sweetness to the mid-palate, but a rush of very good acidity and a broad, leafy green herb background adds some definition. It has decent length too and is a versatile and very enjoyable wine, especially if you don't serve it too cold (15 minutes in the fridge is ample). The wines of Domaines Mas regularly turn up in Majestic's pricing deals. This is full price at the moment and being such a small production might stay that way, but it's an interesting wine that's just about worth its £9.99 price tag. Majestic.

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