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video review: wine of the week

10th January 2010

Peter Lehmann, 'Wigan' Eden Valley Riesling 2003, Australia
For many people January is a month to 'detox', or at least cut back after the indulgence of the festive period. There are plenty of options for low-alcohol wines on the shelves, and indeed it is a fast-growing category, with new products at around 9% ABV, specifically targeted at those looking to lower their alcohol intake. The reduction is acheived through technology, or using techniques like blending unfermented grape juice with wine to dilute the alcohol. Whilst some of these drinks are palatable, none are very exciting. A wine like this exceptional Riesling falls naturally at just 11% alcohol however and offers brilliant drinking: it has the lime cordial purity that's typical of Eden Valley, with nuances of flowers, orange peel and minerals, with the early signs of waxy maturity. In the mouth it is scintillating stuff, with fat, dry, limey fruit but riven with precise acidity and shimmering length. This is delicious but will also cellar for many years. £16.99, Oddbins (£13.59 as part of a mixed case).

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