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Weinrieder (Austria) Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben 2003
There's a delightfully crisp and vivacious little Austrian Grüner Veltliner in Oddbins right now called 'Groovey', from Weingut Salomon, but this totally different kettle of fish that sees malolactic fermentation in oak barrels and comes from 45 year-old vines, giving it huge concentration, texture and quite unctuous qualities. The colour is pale lemony green and the nose has notes of straw, white peach and a hint of something minty and intense. On the palate there is a massive, late-harvest-like attack, almost like a rich Pinot Gris from Zind-Humbrecht, with a tension between almost painfully concentrated fruit and mineral saltiness, and a sweet edge to very ripe, nectarine and peach fruit. There is a spiciness too in this wine, and a note of orange to the acidity that balances all that power and concentration into the finish. A bit of a mouthful this, but highly impressive stuff. 9.99 Oddbins