Warwick, Old Bush Vine Pinotage 2010, South Africa
Pinotage - South Africa's speciality cross-breed of Cinsault and Pinot Noir - is a wine that splits the jury into lovers and haters very often, especially those who tasted the inexpensive, over-cropped
examples that were once the staple (and not terribly good) model for so many producers. But some producers have specialised in making much better, much more serious wines, such as this example from
Warwick Estate in Stellenbosch, which is made from old, naturally low-cropping bush vines. It's not overly oaky (like the 'coffee Pinotages' that smother the grape in charry oak aroma and flavour) but
adds a nice roasted chestnut touch to raspberry-ripple, creamy fruit with a touch of game in the background. In the mouth it has a very good, quite crunchy and ripe berry fruit quality, all polished
with a sheen of oak and hints of briar wood and undergrowth. A nicely bright, juicy wine with some depth and some crunch. Perfect for a juicy steak.
£13.99, see all stockists on wine-searcher.
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