Tom Cannavan's   

Domaine Gerovassiliou (Greece) Chardonnay 1996
Hugely oaky, charred, burnt, buttery toast aromas at first seem overwhelming, but the full-bodied palate has beautiful definition, with fruit of lemons and cool melons, plenty of hazelnut and butter richness and unusual, herbal nuances. The finish is long and spicy. Balanced and complex, this should cellar for a few years, but is really delicious now. Oddbins, 6.49.