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Fairview (South Africa) SMV 2002
The "SMV" stands for Shiraz, Mourvedre and Viognier, a classic threesome of Rhône grapes, two red and the third white, which make up this blend. Fairview is something of a Rhône specialist, with their "Goat's do Roam" range that cheekily mimics Côtes du Rhône. This is an altogether more serious wine however, with a soaring nose of raspberry and redcurrants, and a real herbal, almost medicinal streak. That character fades with time in the glass, and a more lush, chocolaty depth begins to broaden out the picture. On the palate this is silky and refined, with plenty more raspberry and a dry, savoury, tugging acidity and spicy structure beneath. It has good length and balance, and a supple, food-friendly quality that gives it an edge of elegance and "grown-up" character. This should also cellar for a few years. Normally £8.99, this is £6.74 until April 25 at Waitrose.

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