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Sarotto (Italy) Gavi Cru La Maddelena 2004
Italy is, for me, producing some of the world's most interesting white wines at present, especially in the northen and southern extremes of the country. This Gavi de Gavi from Roberto Sarotto, one of the best young winemakers in Piedmont, is a prime example of the fresh, crisp and unexpected flavours to be found. Made from old vine Cortese grapes, this has a moderate 13% alcohol, but packs a textural and flavour punch. The nose has quite a powerful profile with pear and ripe melon skin aromas, but also a nutty or honeyed nuance and an oatmeally quality. On the palate there is an immediately sweet rush of burstingly ripe, grape and stone fruit flavours with plenty of richness and fruit sweetness. But a spine of tangy, citrus and mineral acidity soon starts to cut through, giving a savoury dryness to the mid-palate, before the honeyed weight fills out the finish. 9.25, Berry Bros & Rudd and bbr.com, or 8.32 if purchasing by the case.