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wine of the week 09/11/2008

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  Rocca di Tufo (Italy) Orvieto 2007
This is a stunningly good Italian white, from the Umbrian region of Orvieto, just about dead centre of Italy. It is made from a classic blend of Procanico and Grechetto at the family estate of Giovanni Dubini, undoubtedly one of this appellation's shining stars. The wine pours a fairly deep straw-gold, and whilst the nose is crisp and fresh, it also has alluring depth, with hints of nuts and honey over fat, waxy lemon fruit. There is something distinctly mineral too. On the palate this has that same knife-edge balance: there is richness, a glimpse of nutty oxidation and full-bodied, sweetly-ripe fruit, but the clarity of the acidity and long, mineral and lemon zest finish fills the mouth with its tension and vivacity. Terrific stuff, that has a bit of grip too and I'm certain has some cellaring potential. 8.85, FromVineyardsDirect.com.