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Pecorari (Italy) Pinot Grigio "Lis Neris" 1999
The bulk of north-east Italy's white wines have played to a very undemanding middle-ground in recent years: inexpensive, fresh and light, but not a lot of fruit or body. In the past decade or two the revolution that has crept across Italian winemaking in general has seen profound changes to the whites of regions like Friuli, with the introduction of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris (or Grigio) as well as the use of oak fermentation and ageing. This is a beautiful and alluring wine with a crystal clear colour and sweetly-perfumed nose of honeysuckle, almonds and delicate nectarine fruit. On the palate there's a real impression of sweetness from rich, ripe fruit - like peach juice and pear - with a broad base of acidity and creamy texture leading to a luscious mouthfeel. Succulently packed with fruit and subtle oak, this is as classy as it is delicious.

10.95 Berry Brothers and Rudd