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label Inycon (Italy) Grecanico 2001
There is a whole family of southern Italian white grapes, from Campania, Puglia, Basilatica and Sicilia that share a profile of floral and nutty, quite delicate aromas, but fat, lemony and powerful fruit on the palate. Grecanico is one, named after its Greek origins, and this wine from Sicily offers a real alternative to a white wine diet of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It is a little more akin to the former, with a certain leafy pungency on the nose, but fairly restrained, with notes of almond and straw, and some of that citrus quality. On the palate it is really quite decisive, with a concentrated fruit quality that has a real tell-tale Italian bitter almond, or even Campari-like edge, to cool pear and lemon fruit. Though only 12% alcohol, this is a powerful wine thanks to a leesy, waxy concentration.
4.99, Safeway.