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Hugel (France) Classic dry White 2003
The wines of Alsace are often a source of some confusion for casual wine drinkers, who presume the tall, slim "flute" bottles contain German wine, together with the assumption that wine will be off-dry or sweet. In an effort to counteract this and present a straightforward message to the consumer, Unwins have asked Hugel to create this blend and label it for them as "Classic Dry White". A blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Blanc and Sylvaner, it has a pale green colour and gently aromatic nose, where the subtle notes of lychee and floral, rose-hip aromas are joined by a clean, orchard fruit character and a certain creamy quality. On the palate it delivers a big, full mouthful of really dry, pithy fruit. There is apple and pear, and a swathe of grapefruity acidity that washes over the tongue. This is an uncompromisingly dry style of wine in an intelligent, very grown up style. Not an easy party sipping wine, but it comes into its own with food. £6.99 Unwins