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wine of the week 21/12/2008

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  Henry Fessy (France) Brouilly Cuvée Georges Fessy 2007
Beaujolais Nouveau came and went almost unnoticed last month, but meanwhile high quality wines from the region continue to emerge and continue to define the Gamay grape as capable of producing quiet serious and delicious wines when handled correctly and made with a bit of care. Henry Fessy is part of the Louis Latour portfolio, but this Cru Beaujolais from Brouilly hasn't gone for the Burgundian style of plenty of new oak ageing, but is expressively Gamay, with lifted cherry aromatics and just hints of swirling, smoky spice and earth beneath. On the palate it is juicy and vital, with a firm core of tannins and a steely streak of bitter cherry, but the ripeness and generosity of the fruit is there to balance in a structured and focused wine. A fine contender for roast turkey or duck too. 10.95, Handford, Amps, Planet of Grapes, everywine.co.uk.