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wine of the week 25/01/2009

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  Moselland (Germany) D:Vine Pinot Grigio 2008
There's an ocean of Pinot Grigio out there, much of it a great ebbing and flowing tide of mediocrity whose greatest claim to fame is that it's inoffensive. This PG is a little bit different. Don't get me wrong, it's not a breathtakingly complex example as can just occasionally be conjured from this variety, but it is distinctive, it is tasty, and it is from Germany. The Moselland cooperative harvested 20-year-old vines, growing in the in the chalky soils of the Pfalz region, and processed them in their brand new winery with its state-of-the-art technology. The result is a crunchily fresh wine with notes of pear on the nose, as well as a touch of greengage and a hint of something floral. On the palate it is a decisive core of sharp, zesty lemon fruit and acidity that sparks this into life, cutting through more tropical fruit and giving some real bite on the dry finish of this screw-capped wine. I guess some will be asking whether we actually need a new Pinot Grigio from Germany, but there's no denying this is a very nicely made and pitched example. 4.98, Asda.