|Desvignes (France) Morgon "La Voute St.Vincent" 2000
Anyone who missed out on my recommendation of the gorgeous Dubeouf Morgon "Jean Descombes" a few months ago can make amends by trying this fine example from the top-notch 2000 vintage. Claude Desvignes is a leading light of this appelation, one of the Beaujolais "Crus"; the top 10 sites of the entire region that really inhabit a different planet from over-hyped Beaujolais Nouveau. This is a wine for meditating over as it unravels itself slowly, from an initiallly tight, kirsch and mineral character, to a broader, juicier cherry and grippy plum-skin style. There's a serious charcoally edge to the fruit here, that is dark and dramatic. Without the support of new oak, it relies on supple, muscular acid and tannin structure as well as depths of fruit. This is no shrinking violet, and will be even better around 2006/2007 if you can cellar it well. Berry Bros. & Rudd £8.45 (£8.02 by the case).