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wine of the week 10/05/2009

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   Clotilde Davenne, Sauvignon Saint-Bris 2007
FromVineyardsDirect have strength in many classic European wine regions, thanks partly to co-owner Esme Johnstone having founded Majestic before going on to own Château de Sours in Bordeaux. Their extensive contacts mean special parcels of exciting stuff come up regularly. A case in point is this oddity, a Savignon Blanc from Chablis. The village of Saint-Bris-le-Vineaux is exceptional within Burgundy, as Sauvignon is the only grape allowed, not the usual Chardonnay and Aligoté. The style is distinctly one of Loire-like intensity and minerality rather than New Zealand flamboyance, but there's an extra dimension of lemony cut and apple flvour, as well as quite a richly-textured palate. Shimmering, flavourful stuff. £7.95, FromVineyardsDirect, with free delivery on any two cases.