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   Cono Sur (Chile) Pinot Noir 2006
Chile is quietly but surely improving its Pinot Noir, finding new spots to the north and south of the main vine growing regions, often close to the Pacific coast, where the grape is producing increasingly convincing wines. Cono Sur's inexpensive Pinot Noir has long heralded this potential, being an example of a fuller, riper, more alcoholic style of Pinot than is found in Burgundy, but one which has real fruit quality and delivers a hell of a lot for a very modest price. This 2006 continues in that tradition. Even with 14% alcohol it is far from a bruiser, the gamy, truffly scents of dried blood, mushrooms and damp
vegetation fused with sweet vanilla and a rich berry fruit. On the palate a robust, chewy and dense fruitiness comes to the fore, with masses of spice and a huge dollop of smoky, charry oak flavour. But there is acidity here too, and beneath the rather obvious smoky fatness, there are enough nuances of game and leather, tobacco and soft strawberry pulp to keep this interesting. At its price, a star example of Pinot Noir. 5.99, Sussex Wine Co, Tesco, Waitrose, Majestic and widely available.