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Celler de Capçanes (Spain) Mas Collet 2000
Co-operative cellars exist all over Europe, making wine on behalf of local farmers in a central winery. Whilst some are rather old-fashioned institutions making passable wines for the local market, others are at the cutting edge, and have re-invigorated their entire operations with a total focus on quality. Any list of the world's top five co-ops would include the Cellers de Capçanes in Monsant, just next door to the ultra-fashionable (and ultra-expensive) region of Priorat. This brilliant red has a fabulous perfume of sweet rose-hip, cassis and fudge, with violet and mint highlights, hints of game, and plenty of smooth fruit. On the palate it is dry and lip-smackingly savoury, with those elegant, scented sweet fruit notes surrounded by a deep-chested, honest muscularity of ripe fruit, supple tannins and well-balanced acidity. A cracking wine by any account, and tremendous value for money for this quality.
5.69 Booths, 5.99 Waitrose, 5.99 Majestic