Cien y Pico 'En Vaso' Bobal 2011, Spain
I've just returned from Beaujolais, where I was shown many fine old vineyards that are now abandoned and overtaken by weeds. It's an example of how some traditional old European wine regions are
struggling as the young generation of winemaking families can see no future in farming often difficult land for little reward. But across Europe there are winemakers looking for parcels of old vines to
effectively rescue them and make something of premium quality from often superb vineyard sites. This joint project by an Australian and Spanish winemaker has done just that, with old bush-vine Bobal, over
100 years old, which they have fashioned into a meaty, rich, plum and blackberry-laden wine, super sweet with ripe fruit on the palate, yet with robust tannins and a mouth-filling, serious texture. It's a big
wine, but not a clumsy one, with the natural concentration of old vines and bags of personality.
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