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Links to the left feature an archive of previous round-ups.

week beginning 29/10/2007

the Times - Jane MacQuitty

lively, racy palate makes a perfect off-dry winter aperitif.

elegant, grapey Austrian; delivers unusual spicy, aromatic oomph

hoover up its delicate, peachy fruit

Terrific new combo; tailor-made for roasted red meats

a welcome change from chianti; lively, cherry-charged fruit

chunky red displays some delicious rich, ripe, beetrooty fruit

the Sunday Times - Joanna Simon

Luscious, full-bodied, pinot-noir Champagne from the grand cru of Bouzy

Biscuity, creamy, floral; from the grand cru of Cramant

Spicy, round fruit with crisp acidity; pinot-meunier-based

the Independent - Terry Kirkby

powerful mouthful of rich black fruits, liquorice and a long finish.

herby, spicy wine. Available from next month.

aromas of leather give way to flavours of vanilla and baked fruits

brilliant mix of cedary cabernet sauvignon grapes with spicy syrah

aromas of violets and pears are followed by velvety berries

benchmark crianza, with melting autumnal fruit flavours

terrific subtlety, deceptive in its depth of flavour

full bodied, meaty, with just enough succulent fruity smoothness

big, intense and well structured; rich black fruits

intense cherry fruits and a lengthy finish

the Observer - Tim Atkin

teeny bit of sweetness here, but it is balanced by acidity

intensely aromatic; creamy yet well-proportioned; enough zip

subtle oak, sweet tannins; guts and concentration to develop in bottle

stylish, complex and judiciously oaked; remarkable intensity

the Telegraph - Jonathan Ray

great finesse and mango and pineapple flavours, this is a rare treat

outrageously decadent and delicious

full of marmalade sweetness, nuts, apricots and caramel

full of ripe, honeyed citrus fruit

luscious, almost spicy barley sugar sweetness to it and fine balance

lightly fortified and darkly seductive; serve well chilled

hints of lemon and apricot. Great with fruit tart

Nutty, raisiny and full of Demerara, fig and liquorice flavours

packed with flavours of honey, raisins, orange blossom and cloves

peachily, lemony sweet with a long honeyed finish

the Guardian - Victoria Moore

Looking at a clatter of representative bottles from the top (that's top as in top-selling, not as in most delicious) 10 French brands is reminiscent of walking into the kitchen with a fuggy head and seeing all the wine your friends brought to the party the night before that were then disgracefully slid to one side, unopened, in favour of something nicer. You'll recognise some of the names immediately - French Connection, JP Chenet, Piat d'Or ... I used to believe no one actually drank Piat d'Or. I thought it owed its existence to an elaborate social experiment in which a few thousand bottles were released into the country years ago, and the journey of each was charted as it was received with faux gratitude by one host before being palmed off on another at the earliest opportunity. How many times would each be recycled? How long would it take for every household to be visited by one? And so on. You get the picture. But this is not the case: according to recent ACNielsen figures, Piat d'Or sells 7.8m bottles a year. Someone must be swallowing. I just wish they wouldn't. I tasted the top-selling French brands recently and it was, with some exceptions, a desultory experience.