Wines of Margaret River
© 2009 Tom Cannavan
These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Margaret River, Australia
Xanadu, Exmoor Drive Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2009
Quite powerful, apple and citrus nose, any more vegetal Sauvignon character well in the background. The palate has a gooseberry bite and intensity, a touch of leafy green herbs and a more
unctuous, almost pineapple fruit in the background. Quite richly-textured and balanced by zesty acidity, this drinks well and has a nicely balanced style with only 12.5% alcohol. 87/100
Xanadu, Exmoor Drive Chardonnay 2008
There's a green fig and pleasantly hazelnut note to this wine, with orchard fruits beneath. Wild yeast fermentation does give a nicely funky, earthy character too. On the palate the barrel influence is
quite prominent, with a sweetness of fruit also dominant. That vanilla and tropical fruit attack is met rather abruptly by a bold, lemony acidity. This keeps the wine fresh, but perhaps a touch disjointed
Xanadu, Chardonnay 2008
Again, wild yeast fermentation and ageing in French oak barriques (25% new) are part of the equation here, and the nose displays that funky, complex character with a trace of something earthy and
meaty that's verging on being indistinct, but a nuttiness and green-fruited quality begins to come through. On the palate this comes together well: there's a big, pithy, almost sour acidity at the core of
this, but wrapped around it are softly toasty, nougat flavours and some ripe, sweet fruit, in a wine that ends up quite complex and with good balance. 89/100.
Xanadu, Exmoor Drive Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
There's a fine, sweet, almost blood-streaked gamey edge to the black fruit on this wine, with a classic hint of Margaret River herbaceousness. On the palate ripe black fruit - cassis and black cherry - are
tinged with some smoky oak and a hint of bittersweet cocoa. There's a certain freshness too thanks to good acidity and a tight, grippy line of tannin. 88/100.
Xanadu, Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
This handsome, tall bottle contains Cabernet that spent 14 months in French oak, around 55% of it new. That herbal quality is here again, but this time joined by more subtle, integrated notes of cedar and
incense, and a coffeeish warmth to the black fruit character. On the palate this has a fairly grippy, stern core of acid and tannin that should help it to age positively, as the fruit is sweet and has a
nice density. It perhaps lacks a touch of flesh on the mid-palate, but is a wine with very good components and a certain elegance. 90/100.
||return to profile of Xanadu