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Wines of Margaret River

© 2009 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Margaret River, Australia.

VOYAGER ESTATE

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Voyager Sauvignon / Semillon 2008
Semillon sees a little barrel ferment. Nice creamy lemon rind fruit, with a nicely herbal touch, and has fine texture: quite creamy and savoury, with the texture and savoury structure. 88/100

Voyager Sauvignon / Semillon 2009
Waxy, apple peel and lemon nose, a lot of texture and grip, with a lemon zest character, and there's a pithy acidity. This still has two months before release and is perhaps slightly closed. Spicy and moreish, with good acidity. 88/100 but would need to be reassessed.

Chardonnay 2007
From a warm year, harvested quite early in February before the heat struck. 100 percent new oak, 15% malo. Lovely green fig and quince like fruit, lots of smoky quality. Some orange and ripe melon. The palate has great acidity and lots of creamy, lemon curd fruit. Fantastic intensity and savoury quality. 90/100

Chardonnay 2006
From one of the coldest, latest vintages harvested one month later than normal. The nose picks up a little floral, delicate with a really fine, almost Chassagne quality. 92/100

Chenin Blanc 2009
6.2g/l sugar. Fine orange blossom, crunchy green apple fruit. Very juicy and delicious. 87/100

Tom Price Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2005
Made only in exceptional years, this flagship white is in the smoky Graves mould, with masses of green olive and mineral against sweet oak and lemony fruit. Rich and full, but balanced and long, it is a baby that needs time. 93/100.

Shiraz 2006
There is ripe, rich, bramble fruit here, but lovely cool climate pepper and lighter, schistier nuances and a touch of leaf, earthy character. An edge of liquorice, but has a real juiciness 88/100

Girt by Sea 2007
50% Cabernet with Merlot, Malbec and Shiraz. A touch of baked plum and fine cassis. Really nice tension to this wine, with a linear quality to the fruit and tannins, and very lithe and juicy. Delivers a lot for £9.50 per bottle. 90/100

Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Rich, sweet, thick and ripe black fruit. Smoky, a bit of bittersweet black fruit skins. Nice tannin length, good weight and freshness. Lovely weight and balance. 91/100

Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
A touch of tobacco and a little elegant, smoky and mineral quality to juicy cherry skin and rich, dark, damson fruit. The tannins and ripe and pretty grippy, but there's a juicy, savoury and edge to the fruit. Cool and classy, with fantastic freshness as well as spice. 93/100

Tom Price Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Cabernet Sauvignon, all southern Margaret River. Fabulous, glossy blackcurrant fruit, with huge opulence, but also has a cedary, complex character. Beautiful fruit on the palate and great fruit and balance with beautiful, dark, sweet edged but savoury fruit. Long and fantastically pure, this is a huge wine so much you like it might depend on your love of this style. 94/100

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