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Luxembourg tasting notes

text and photographs © 2008 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Luxembourg.

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Domaines et Tradition Auxerrois 1991
Deep golden yellow colour. Quite nutty, with a honey and cashew character. A tiny bit oxidised. Palate has a hint of sweetness, with a limpid, honeyed note over apricot and dry, yellow plum flavours. There's a definite minerality comes through in the finish leaving this quite grippy with a fennel like note. Very interesting, but also of really good quality. 88/100

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Domaines et Tradition Auxerrois 1999
Has also taken on some colour, with a tiny note of salty minerality in amongst some oatmeal and stone fruit aromas. Much more fresh than the 1991, with a bite of lime and grapefruit, and a vibrancy that shimmers in the mouth. Very good acidity here, with a pithy quality of grapefruit zest playing against the sweetness of fruit. Beautiful wine. 90/100

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Domaines et Tradition Auxerrois 2006
There's a creaminess and overripe note here, but very pure pear fruit and yellow plum comes through, with a sherbetty minerality. On the palate there is really vibrant acidity, with a chalky edge of minerality and more of that grapefruit and lemon pith dryness. Much more nimble and light on the palate, with the raciness of youth. Delightful. 89/100. Selling at cellar door for Euros 7.20.

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Auxerrois 2006
Very pale green colour. Refined, delicate, floral edged nose with plenty of crisp apple fruit and a pith grapefruit note. Bone dry palate, with the ripeness of fruit that is there: apple and pear and a touch of exotic papaya or mango - is submerged under a layer of crisp, dry, pithy acidity. Very good. 88/100

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Wintringer Feltsberg Pinot Gris 1996
Masses of honey and truffle, and dried fruit notes of some Botrytis. Spices, melon and a suggestion of quite fat fruit. On the palate bone dry, with masses of lemony fruit and pithy acidity. Mouth-watering stuff, with a dry minerality and some real tang and vibrancy in the finish. 88/100

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Wintringer Feltsberg Pinot Gris 1993
A little truffly note at first, with some stony minerality and plenty of dry, plummy fruit. Again the palate here is bone dry, verging on the austere, with masses of pithy, chalky grapefruit and lemon pith mineral dryness. This has fruit too, but a dry quality. A wine crying out for fruit, but there is terrific quality here and good length. 89/100

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Riesling Palmberg 1991
Plenty of ripeness and a little rotted orange note of Botrytis, with a palate that marries fine, ripe fruit to well-judged acidity. Has a little weight on the mid-palate, with waxy weight and lovely richness coming through. Very dry, pithy finish. 90/100

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Riesling Palmberg 1993
Very smoky notes here, with sesame seed and lemon poppy seed pound cake. Freshness on the palate, with a herbal quality and fine, dry lemon pith and mineral acidity. Lovely persistence and intensity here. 90/100

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Riesling Palmberg 1959
One of 12 remaining bottles in the family cellar. Jean has tasted the 1885 (in 1996). Moderately deep yellow colour, with a nose of spices, candied orange peel and beeswax. On the palate there is still terrific life and zest here, with pin-sharp acidity still that is pure and focused, and a mealliness to the flavour and texture on the mid-palate. There is orange again, and a waxiness to the fruit, and long, tantalising finish. A great experience. 92/100

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Auxerrois 'Pailette' Vin de Paille 2005
14.5% ABV. Lovely pear, peach and orange blossom notes with plenty of fruit. The palate has delicious sweetness, with some grip and tannin, but such limpid, honeyed but clean nectarine juice and pear syrup fruit. Good acidity, which leaves this fairly thick and luscious, but has enough acidity to freshen. Lovely style and finesse here. 89/100

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin Riesling Vin de Glace 2004
Barrel-aged. Herbs and wax, and little notes of seeds and nuts with plenty of honey. Honey and lemon on the palate, with a shimmering core of pure lime and lemon zest acidity, and a sherbetty, fresh mineral acidity. Lovely balance and complexity here. 90/100

Clos Mon Vieux Moulin
25 rue de Niederdonven
L-5401 Ahn

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