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Tokaji tasting notes

© 2011 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Tokaji.

BÉRES

Some of the wines of Béres are available in the Hakkasan group of restaurants in the UK plus a few specialist merchants. See all UK stockists of Béres' wines on wine-searcher.com.

Béres, Tokaji Dry Furmint 2010
12.5% alcohol. Green aromas, with a hint of underripe melon and herbs. Attractively fresh and herby. The palate has quite a full, creamy body, with lots of citrus and some star fruit and Asian pear crunch. 86-87

Béres, Tokaji 'Holdezust' Cuvée 2009
70% Hárslevelű, 30% Furmint. 13% alcohol, 9.1g/l sugar. Suppressed aromatics, light white fruit aromas. Slightly anonymous palate, the sweetness butting against slightly coarse acidity. Easy-drinking if well chilled. 84

Béres, Tokaji 'Naparany' Cuvée 2008
50/50 Hárslevelű and Furmint. 13.5% alcohol, sugar 4.5g/l, aged in oak. Creaminess and a touch of vanilla on the nose. Lots of richness and heaviness that is eased by the cold serving temperature, but this and the previous wine are big, powerful wines with oaky tannins and vanillin flavours and lots of power, perhaps at the expense of a little elegance. 85

Béres, Tokaji 'Diokut' Hárslevelű 2008
14% alcohol. Barrel fermented. Appealing nose with creamy vanilla, a touch of lime and some juicy apple fruit beneath. On the palate there's a bitter twist of grapefruit and lemon, the texture quite broad and the creaminess and hint of tannin filling out. Again slightly aggressive in the finish, but would be much better with food ??? 85-86

Béres, Tokaji 'Locse' Furmint 2008
(The vineyard we walked through). Dry, 13.5% alcohol, fermented and 8 months ageing in oak, form the oldest vineyards (30 years old). Orange and spice on the nose, with a hint of blossom and again plenty of vanilla. The palate has a little of the same character: powerful and with plenty of acidity, this has a pithy lemon character but is more harmonious and a little more elegant than the Diokut. 86-87

Béres, Tokaji Dry Szamorodni 2006
14% alcohol. Long ageing in oak barrels. Oxidised, hay and custard note, with some rich Botrytis character, aged in barrels that are not full or topped up. The palate has a lovely nuttiness and Cox's pippin sweetness, with lovely weight and acidity, the concentration, tannin and heft of the wine suiting this style more I think. 88/100

Béres, Tokaji Sweet Szamorodni 2007
12% alcohol, 84g/l sugar, 6.8g/l acidity. 60% Hárslevelű, 40% Furmint. A touch of glace fruit and of nectarine. A hint of more raisined quality. Big luscious mouthful, with plenty of fruit and sweetness, an orangy burst of flavour and acidity, and reasonably long. 87

Béres, Tokaji 'Magita' Cuvée 2008
50% Furmint, 30% Hárslevelű, 20% Kövérszőlő. 12% alcohol, 86.4g/l sugar, 9.1g/l acidity. Three months ageing in oak. Nice honey and a touch of nuttiness, a bit of apricot too. Luscious palate, the honey and glycerine richness with nice balance, a touch of that tiny bit of coarseness, but sits nicer in this cuvee than in the drier styles, 86-87/100.

Béres, Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos 2007
11% alcohol, 85.7g/l sugar, 9.2g/l acid. All Aszú wines are a 50/50 blend of Hárslevelű and Furmint. Lots of slightly raw oak at this stage, with coconut and vanilla over custard apple and apricot. Very pleasing fruit, and well-balanced with good lemony acidity, though just a touch cloying somehow, length quite good. 88-89/100.

Béres, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2006
9.5% alcohol, 151.2g/l sugar, 10.8g/l acidity. Has some herby quality, still a lot of resinous, vanilla-thick oak. On the palate this is rich, sticky and full of sweet glace fruit and orange, with a dried apricot and fig background. Lots of substance her, but the acidity is good, giving this is lime and lemon clarity in the finish. 90

Béres, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2005
10.2% alcohol, 145g/l sugar, 9.1g/l acid. Oak is much less prominent, the nose with fine pear and peachy aromas, subtle honey and nuts, but clean and fresh. The palate has better definition due to the oak being more background, the fruit has a nice grapefruit pith edge to it, and the acidity has a clean, long finish with a bit of real bite and pithy, orange peel tang. 91-92/100.

Béres, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2007
70% Furmint, 10% alcohol, 168g/l sugar, 9.1g/l acidity. More toasty and smoky, with lots of apricot and lots of dried fruit and glace orange. Touches of tea and barley sugar too. The palate has a terrific raft of sweet nectarine and fig fruit, but there is freshness and cut too, with plenty of vivid acidity that is pert and fresh, without the pithy dryness of some. A lovely wine. 93-94/100

Béres, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2005
70% Furmint, 10.1% alcohol, 170g/l sugar, 9.6g/l acidity. Dried fruit dominates the nose, with barley sugar and honey notes, a hint of orange and ginger. The palate is hugely sweet and has a glycerine richness and thickness, with lots of dry, fruity dried fruit character and the peachy freshness showing through. Very nice balance and another delicious and well-balanced wine that has good freshness and acidity in the finish. 93/100.

Béres, Tokaji Eszencia 2005
3.45% alcohol, 504g/l sugar, 17.49g/l acidity. Tawny colour, Toffee and Muscovado sugar, with lots of raisins and that walnutty character. Engine oil thick, with beautiful liquidised raisin richness. Masses of flavour, with enormous concentration and still freshness, the rosy apple and lime fresh acidity coming through. Delicious stuff with huge intensity and delicious mouth-filling flavour. 94

Béres, Must 2011
Hárslevelű with 0% alcohol - grape juice. Thick, rich and off-dry with a nice citrus flavour and a little herbal, herbaceous character and a nice acid balance. Most enjoyable and quite fine.

Béres, Aszú Palinka
40% alcohol. Grappa. Herbaceous, quite refined palate, with a hint of Tokaji character but nice length with fine length.

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