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Tokaji tasting notes

© 2011 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Tokaji.


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Gróf Degenfeld Tokaji Muscat Lunel 2010
This estate of 30ha is owned by a German industrialist (reputedly the world's largest producer of sewing needles), and boasts one of the region's best hotels. It is certified organic whilst also using biodynamic practices. This 12.5% alcohol wine has a lovely nose, hints of smokiness wreathed around scented, floral notes, lots of juicy citrus and peach. Most attractively pitched palate; off-dry, with really good, fresh acidity and quite a full-bodied with juicy fruit bite against the sweetness. Lovely aperitif. 87-88/100.

Gróf Degenfeld, Tokaji Kövérszőlő 2009
13.5% alcohol with a high proportion of Botrytised grapes. Honeyed and apple fruit nose, with a touch of tangerine and glacé fruit. Quite full and silky on the palate. Not a wine that is packed with flavour and real character, but it is very nicely balanced, with a long, creamy finish. 88/100.

Demeter, Tokaji Dry Furmint 2009
Lovely pear and apple skin tang, a touch of glacé fruit suggesting honeyed richness. Indeed the palate has a slippery, viscous feel and a hit of gentle sweetness, thought there is dry extract savour and bite, with good acidity and a long, very dry finish. 90/100.

Vayi, Tokaji Cuvée Late Harvest 2008
A little oxidation, but lots of Botrytis honey and a touch of caramel. Very punchy palate, lots of zest and depth, a really nice, punchy wine. 89/100.

Kikelet, Tokaji Late Harvest 2008
Rather non-descript nose, a little honey and nuttiness, but pretty flat onto the palate too, pleasantly balanced sweetness, but lacks a bit of character and vibrancy. Perhaps a touch over the hill? 84/100

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