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Thummerer, Eger

text and photographs © 2008 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Eger, Hungary.

white wines

Thummerer Királyleányka 2007
12.5% alcohol, dry. There's a slightly skin-contacty phenolic character, with some fresh apple fruitiness. The palate is fresher and has a lemony clarity, and finish is quite clean and well-balanced. 86/100

Thummerer Late Harvest Pinot Gris 2001
Lovely delicate lemon and honey nose, touches of orange and a little hint of basil leaf. On the palate it has a delicate fruit clarity, with a very fresh, though slightly watery finish. Just doesn't quite push through, though I like its delicate spice and leaf tea notes. I find this intelligent and gentle. 89/100

Thummerer Chardonnay 2007
Aged three months in second fill barrels. Dry, lemon pith character with some almond and a rather raw power. Is better with food (drunk with some roast pork) though it is in a dry, full, relatively un-fruity style. 86/100

red wines

Thummerer Egri Bikavér 2004
Big rich, baked plum pie and spice nose with still the ozone freshness of cherry and a certain minerality from the Kekfrankos. The palate has a similar marriage of the smooth, plummy character and creamy texture with that cut of the iron-oxide dryness. With food - oven roasted duck - a terrific wine finishing with plenty of spice and a acidity. 89/100

Thummerer Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Tight, quite mineral black fruit. Lots of cherry and a touch of Balsamic. There's a nagging suggestion of under ripeness. The palate has a thick, savoury plum skin character. With leather and spices. A good Cabernet this, in a slightly rustic and gamy style. 88/100

Thummerer Rebus 2003
Bordeaux blend with some Blaufrankisch, aged in new barrels. Quite fine, with smoky sandalwood notes and a rich, thick balsamic blackness. The palate is earthy, leathery and very solid. It perhaps lacks a little light and shade, but the sweetness of fruit is there, wrapped in svelte, spicy oak tannins and enough acidity to freshen. 89/100.

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