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Sicily tasting notes

text and photographs © 2014 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Sicily and its wines.

AGRIGENTO

white wines

Planeta, Chardonnay 2012, Italy
DOC Sicilia, from Agrigento. A nutty, subtly nougat oak adds buttery but discreet richness on the nose. The palate is quite full, though there is elegance here, the fine acidity and the touch of sour lemon or sour apple cut to the acidity and fruit, adding a savoury and quite Burgundian feel. Long and well balanced. 89-90/100.

CVA Canicattì, Fileno Grillo 2013, Italy
DOC Sicilia, from Agrigento. This has a lively, slightly elderflower note, with a touch of smokiness and a touch of pear (and youthful ferment character). The palate too has that Sauvignon-like punch, flirting with elderflower and nectarine juiciness, and quite luscious and ripely creamy into the finish. Tangy, perhaps lacking an ounce of acidity. 87/100.

red wines

Corvo, Corvo Rosso 2012, Italy
IGT Sicilia, from Agrigento. Nero d'Avola and Nerello Mascalese. Robust, lightly earthy stuff, with a density of fruit and very nice, rounded, sweet and dark appeal. The palate has loads of glycerine richness and fat black fruit, the sumptuous nature of this is enveloping, the bite of endive in the finish, and the juicy character of the acidity adding up to a big mouthful of wine, always maintaining an edge of seriousness and sinew. 91/100.

CVA Canicattì, Centuno Nero d'Avola 2011, Italy
IGT Terre Siciliane, from Agrigento. Very dense, deep and youthful. Rich black fruits, lots of ripeness and richness, with chocolate and a flood of sweet, ripe, full black fruit, lots of clove and cinnamon, plenty of toasty oak in evidence. The palate has massive sweetness of fruit, bulked up by all that oak and spice. So big and impressive, but I do worry a little about the balance, feeling a little heat, and a finish that is all spice and power, possibly at the expense of a little elegance. 87-89/100.

Feudo Arancio, Nero D'Avola 2012, Italy
DOC Sicilia, from Agrigento/Ragusa. Dark, vinous stuff, seemingly not too heavily oaked, the spicy black fruit quality dominating. On the palate this has power and ripe depth, but the savoury quality of the fruit is excellent, giving this grippy depth and loads of sweetness. The tannins are supple but creamy, grippy, and the balance is good, despite a hint of alcohol. 89/100.

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