|Tom Cannavan's wine-pages.com|
|An event called ‘New Frontiers of Taste’ was
held in Cheltenham last summer,
as part of the Cheltenham Science Festival.
An audience of over 250 explored the
‘science of taste’, with a panel of experts that included
chef Heston Blumenthal of the Fat Duck in Bray, and
the founders of a recently launched drinks company
called Isaké. Isaké is importing a unique
range of truly premium Japanese sakés into the UK,
and part of their mission is to educate British palates
in the subtleties and intricacies of this ancient
beverage, especially by pairing different saké styles
with classic European cuisine.
The process of making premium Japanese saké is every bit as exacting as the finest wines or malt whiskies. Whilst the source and purity of the water used is all important, the rice for saké, a beverage that is fermented like beer or wine, is bewilderingly complex. Over 60 varieties of saké rice are cultivated (all different from eating rice), with some more highly prized than others. Just like Grand Cru vineyards, particular regions are famed for their suitability to grow the highest quality rice of specific strains.
|The rice is then polished to prepare it for brewing,
removing fat and proteins. For some premium saké only
35 per cent or so of the rice kernel will be left behind.
The polish, as well as the rice strain, will greatly affect
the flavour of the finished product.
The Isaké partners are Kumiko Ohta, a specialist in the craft of saké making, and two Frenchmen, Xavier Chapelou and Jean-Louis Naveilhan, both of whom are highly experienced sommeliers, including stints at London’s Le Gavroche. (pictured top to bottom)
An evening in Jean-Louis Naveilhan’s company recently offered a mesmerising introduction to the rituals and precision of the world of premium saké. This is not the firewater stuff served lukewarm in countless oriental restaurants, but rare bottlings from small brewers, with prices starting at around £21, and rising to £660 for a bottle of the 115 year-old Yumatogawa brewery’s Inochi Crystal, made with the spring waters of Mount Iide and polished organic rice.
One of the main purposes of that event in Cheltenham where Isaké unveiled thier brews, was to explore umami.
|Isaké also import the teas of the family run Kanematsu company, founded in 1900 and producing tea in the
Shizuoka region for four generations.
Green tea is not a variety, but a way of harvest. Whilst Indian or Chinese black tea is harvested ripe then dried, Japanese tea is made from young leaves that are briefly steamed as soon as they are harvested
to preserve all medicinal and nutritional properties.
So before the food came a little ceremony of green tea. We drank the tea, then mashed the remaining leaves with a little soy sauce before eating them. This was an introduction to umami, and apparantly good for the health.