Mil Piedras, Argentina

by Tom Cannavan, 07/07

In terms of international reputation, the New World's regions, sub-regions and smaller wine-making districts are still little understood by most consumers. Whilst Mendoza is undoubtedly Argentina's most famous geographical wine name, the quality of wines from its sub-regions like Lújan de Cuyo and the Valle de Uco is only gradually becoming appreciated.

Mil Piedras is a label from a relatively new operation in the prime Vista Flores region of the Valle de Uco called Benvenuto de la Serna. The Italian Benvenuto family have established a high-tech winery in the foothills of the Andes, and have put a crack team in place that includes Michel Rolland as consultant winemaker, and Angel Mendoza, formerly of Trapiche, in charge of vineyards.

The Sussex Wine Company is the sole UK retailer of these wines, made in small quanitites, and selling at a very fair price of £6.95 given the undoubted quality here.

Mil Piedras wines

Mil Piedras (Argentina) Viognier 2006
Mil Piedras produce only 2,000 cases of this Viognier. It has a very pale, bright colour, and a nose that overflows with floral notes and ripe, juicy apricot fruit. There's a hint of spice too, and a little bready, oatmeally note adding depth. On the palate this is very punchy and vibrant. There's more apricot here, and a sweet, juicy nectarine character, but the whole picture is cool and crisp, with a nice core of orange and steely, mineral and white fruit acidity. This is a very nicely pitched Viognier, with plenty of mid-palate weight and texture, but a really nice balance and sense of brightness and life about it. Delicious. £6.95, Sussex Wine Company, £6.99.

Mil Piedras (Argentina) Merlot 2004
Again, only 2,000 cases where made of this example from vineyards in the foothills of the Andes. The first impression on the nose is quite a sumptuous one, with loads of chocolaty berry fruit, an aromatic edge of cedar and Sandalwood and plenty of creamy richness. On the palate this has lovely balance and quality. Sweet bramble and red plum fruit fills the mouth, with a creamy consistency and bittersweet cocoa and liquorice darkness and richness. A little edge of something kirsch-like, with a cherry tang of acidity and quiet complex little Parma violet and blueberry flavours adds a layer of complexity. What a seriously good little wine this is, with both strucure, depth and fruit. £6.95, Sussex Wine Company, £6.99.