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Wines of Puglia, Italy

text and photographs © 2008 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Puglia.

MASSERIA L'ASTORE

Krita 2008
A blend of Malvasia (70%) and Chardonnay, the Chardonnay being aged on its lees. Lovely dried apricot nose with little floral touches. On the palate there is body and a creaminess to the texture, with lovely fruit definition and a really crisp, lively finish with no blowsiness. Very satisfyingly balanced, textured and crisp. 87/100.

Massaro Rosa 2008
A Negroamaro rosé with an earthy character, a little touch of briar. This is not a fruit driven style, and onto the palate a spiciness and a touch of green, herbal earthiness again, with fresh acidity and a nip of tannins. Very much a food wine, but quite rich and stylish in its distinctive style. 86/100.

Filimei 2007
An IGT Negroamaro. The colour is quite a bright cherry red, with a a great deal of leafiness, giving positively nettly notes to cherry fruit. On the palate a deal of that herbal bite again, with a broader, quite liquoricy and chicory edge. Grippy, spicy and mouth-filling in the finish. 87/100

Jema 2007
IGT Primitivo. A slightly baked quality here, with baked plum pie and a touch of herby quality. On the palate quite creamy and rich, with a little bit of stewed prune, but the sweetness and weight of the Primitivo coming through with some style. Stays a little bit cloying for me, with a thickness and baked quality that just detracts. 86/100.

Argentieri 2006
Seventy percent Negroamaro with Cabernet Sauvignon, aged eight months in Nevers and Tronçais barriques. The Cabernet is quite dominant on the nose, with a thick plum and black berry fruit and a little touch of something like black olive. The palate has a certain dustiness to the flavour profile, with plenty of fat, sweet fruit and plenty of herbs and spices coming through. But a little touch of green tannin adds a bit of earthy character that works well in the finish. A touch resinous from the oak, but good. 88/100.

L'Astore 2006
Fifty percent each of Aglianico and Petit Verdot, aged 14 months in Alliers and Nevers barrels. Hugely high, camphory, almost geranium leaf nose that is very green. The palate has that stripe of something green too, the tannins very crunchy and green, and although this is an interesting experiment, I would hope the wine might show better with some time in bottle. 86/100.

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