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Off-line gathering Glasgow

by Tom Cannavan, 06/99

These notes from an "off-line" gathering at Lux restaurant in Glasgow. This is a chic yet comfortable venue in Glasgow's West End, run by a wine-lover and happy on this occassion for us to bring along our own Wines. Lux is not normally a "BYOB" restaurant - indeed their own list is full of interest, with some relative bargains to be found at the top end.

Krebs-Grode (Rheinessen) Riesling Auslese Trocken Odernheimer Herrgottspfad 1998
This is dry German Riesling ("trocken" means dry). Pale straw/gold colour. Alluring aromas of lime and mineral salts, but also plush fig and peach fruit. There is a beautiful sweetness of fruit on the palate with fine, ripe pear and apple flavours and some bitter-orange notes. The acidity is bracing, but totally at one with the fruit and not overpowering the long, pure and delicious finish. Lovely, clean stuff.

Chanson Père et Fils (Burgundy) Corton Grand Cru 1973
Deep, old-gold colour. Some sweet old oak on the nose, then a bouquet of smoky bacon, nuts, fat and slightly sherried scents. The palate is very nutty and dry. There is some buttery texture, but acidity is now quite dominant and the wine has become a little "bitty" with slightly dried-out, straw flavours on the finish. Very interesting rather than totally enjoyable.

Henschke (Australia) Mount Edelstone Shiraz 1993
Fabulously aromatic nose of kirsch-like brandy-soaked cherries, crushed blackberry, chocolate and a sheen of sweet vanilla. There is also a touch of volatility that, given the intensity of the nose, doesn't detract. It is silky-smooth and though glycerine level is high, it is medium-bodied. It has a lovely, full, meaty palate with rich fruit, soft mouth-coating tannins and moderate acidity. It has excellent length too. Very good indeed.

Heggie's (Australia) Eden Valley Merlot 1994
Slightly dumb nose. Emerging aromas of cherries. Very reserved, structured and savoury palate with tight, peppery fruit and blackcurrant flavours. This seems rather closed at present, with firm, greenish tannins, but there appears to be fine concentration and some complexity. Not helped by being over-shadowed by the previous wine.

Penfolds (Australia) Noble Riesling Traminer Late Harvest 1990
I've been enjoying this wine for several years. Now a dark tawny colour, there is a high, waxy note over sweet, dark muscavado sugar aromas and unctuous, exotic, figgy fruit. The palate is luscious and sweet, caramelised and dark, yet still shot through with steely acidity. Fully mature, but holding up well.