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Wines of Margaret River

© 2009 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Margaret River, Australia.

LEEUWIN ESTATE

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Art Series Riesling 2008
Dry, gently herbaceous, clean limey fruit. Lovely palate, delicate with a light talcumy, floral feel. The palate has fine lemon and lime fruit, with a gentle acidity and a delicate style. 88/100

Siblings Sauvignon Semillon 2009
Semillon is fermented in old barrels. Nicely peachy, light, peach down and gooseberry cut, a hint of herbaceous quality, but in that nice peach mid-style. The palate has a layered texture and depth, with lots of herbal quality but a great thrust and cut of crisp lemony acidity. 89/100

Prelude Chardonnay 2007
This has a very attractive green bean, punchy edge to the fruit, with some background of green fig and smokiness. On the palate this has a beautiful balance and a really tight, lemony, beautifully focused fruit and the core of acidity slices through the slightly creamier, leesy notes of the finish. 90/100

Art Series Chardonnay 2007
Beautiful, fresh but full palate, a lovely ripe Ogen melon breadth to this. Fantastic fruit and clarity here. Tangy and juicy but has a breadth of fruit. 92/100

Art Series Chardonnay 2006
Like the Prelude, all crushes and pressed - no whole bunch - but has skin contact. Barrel ferment, and this gets 100% new oak as opposed to 40% for the Prelude. Similarly green bean and ripe fig nose with lots of weight and a bit of buttered toast, but there's a piercing green fruit quality beneath. Delicious palate, lots of sweetness to the fruit here, lots of depth, but the edge of the acidity and the long, clean linearity is delicious. 93/100

Art Series Chardonnay 2005
A smooth toasty quality, with a touch of mint even, buttered mint humbug. There's fine fruit and quality here, with juicy sweet fruit, just punching through with tropical fruit notes, Lovely acidity, and the warming, creamy, toffee apple notes too. Delicious and structure. 93/100

Art Series Chardonnay 1989
Re-bottled 18 months ago under screwcap from the cork. Big percentage (50%) oxidised and thrown away. Fantastic depth of figgy, baked apple fruit and delightful orangy fruit. Beautiful freshness, with plenty of vim and vigour, fantastic balance and depth. 95/100

2007 Art Series Shiraz
Shiraz was planted here from the start, when it was called hermitage locally. It didn't really work in the sites where it was planted, but now they have new vineyards and buy some fruit from Willyabrup. Glossy, touches of pepper and spice, with delicious, fat cherry fruit. The fat, sweet mouth-filling fruit has a lovely edge of chocolate. 93/100

Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Has a touch of Malbec too. Already bottled but pre-release. Lovely cedar, but really nice blackcurrant fruit and a brighter, redcurrant to-note. Very bold and bright. The palate shows the young oak a little, that needs to integrate more, but the glossy weight of the fruit is all there, backed up by a sinewy, bold blackcurrant richness. Beautiful; 94/100

Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Has a fine cassis weight and depth, with a dusty, very deep and dark feel to it. The palate has chocolaty richness, with real depth and that cedary, edgy, rich but savoury character. 94/100

Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
The current release. Cedary, gravel-edged, but has a plushness too, with the really ripe, plush black fruit. The palate has great fruit too, and the black core of sweet cassis and mulberry goes on and on. Deliciously moreish. 95/100

Cabernet Sauvignon 1982
Mature, slightly leafy, iron oxide quality but still some fine, sweet fruit at the core and a touch of gamy quality, as well as some deep, coffeeish oak. 92/100

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