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Domaine Jean Becker

text and photographs © 2007 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Biodynamic Alsace.

Jean Becker (Franc) Pinot Blanc 2002
Lovely round, limpid quality with a floral and spicy fragrance and a sense of opulence. There is plenty of pear and apple fruit. On the palate plenty of power and substance to the orchard fruit flavours, and lovely lemony acidity.

Jean Becker (France) Riesling Lerchenberg 2003
Lovely expressive lemon and sherbetty nose, with a waxy presence and a nice crisp character. On the palate the acidity is good, if a little less taut and mineral than in the 2002 (tasted with lunch). Nice and clean and lemony, and surprisingly fresh for the vintage.

Jean Becker (France) Riesling Grand Cru Hagenschlauf 2003
Weightier, much 'fatter' quality on the nose, with a mealy richness and a creamy quality. Some herbal notes too. On the palate a nice sour grip of lemon and lime fruit at present, with quiet a rich mid-palate and a real sense of minerality into the finish. Quite grippy and skinny feeling, but with good length and just enough acidity to add freshness.

Jean Becker (France) Riesling Grand Cru Froehn 2003
Clan, crisp minerality here, with a little floral nuance and a certain waxiness. On the palate it is more racy and pithy, with very dry grapefruit character and lemon and grapefruit acidity. Good quality here, with a little more lightness but still a rich, leesy style with plenty of power.

Jean Becker (France) Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2003
A much more schisty and mineral, stony nose. Cool, pear and melon fruit that is quiet tight and focused. On the palate a touch of RS, with a rich, leesy, skin contact richness and pear skin bite. These wines are quite tough and chewy in a sense, and the touch of fruit sweetness here sits slightly uneasily against that concentrated skinny grip and dry, pithy acidity.

Jean Becker (France) Gentil 2004
Muscat, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewurztraminer. Lots of spice and aromatic Gewurz qualities coming through, with lychee and old roses. On the palate rich and leesy, with a little bit of blowsy quality, but it is easy to drink, the fat, ripe fruit balanced by grippy acidity.

Jean Becker (France) Tokay-Pinot Gris 2003
Very easy nose, with creamy white fruits and lemon to the fore, with a slightly mealy English apple quality. There is quite obvious sweetness on the palate, with a back up of nectarine skin fruit and quiet a punchy, fruity mid-palate before orange and grapefruit acidity. Very attractive and easy to drink.

Jean Becker (France) Tokay-Pinot Gris Grand Cru Froehn 2001
A nice waxy, sweet nectarine note, with some guava character. Onto the palate it has a nice richness and ripeness, with a harmonious quality between a fat, rich fruit character and a lovely acid quality. Lovely smoky, bacon fat quality.

Jean Becker (France) Gewürztraminer Rimelsberg 2002
Subtle toffeed notes and relatively subdued, lightly smoky notes. On the palate it has a weight and richness, with very ripe fruit that is off-dry and attractive, and backed with a soft but fine grapefruity acidity. Quite simple, but delicious.

Jean Becker (France) Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2003
Quiet a smoky, bacon fat nose, with richness and a deep-set, nectarine fruit quality. A touch of honey and lychee fruit comes through. On the palate this is rich and mouthfilling, with a deep, skin contact richness but a nicely restrained quality too. Lovely length and good balance here.

Jean Becker (France) Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Froehn 2004
Lightness and more aromatic brightness, with crisp apple and pear, some juicy more exotic melon aromas. Off dry, with lovely sweetness and a freshness here. Fine, juicy fruit quality is quiet exotic and brightly fruity, with a big grapefruit acid structure beneath. Tension and balance here, very good.

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