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Franciacorta tasting notes

text and photographs © 2014 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Franciacorta and its wines.

FIVE WINES BACK TO 1979

Berlucchi, Franciacorta Brut Cellarius 2008, Italy
Beautifully refined, very clean and racy-fresh with lovely streaming bubbles and small creamy mousse. Really racy, taut, apple and citrus freshness. A little touch of biscuit and toast comes through. Delicious. 90-91/100.

Ferghettina, Franciacorta Satèn 2009, Italy
36 months on the yeast, 100% chardonnay. A delicious, open and nutty oxidised style with lots of bruised apple and pear, delicious rich autolysis style. Admittedly very Champagne like. The buttery richness of the palate is there, perhaps not the silky creaminess that one normally expects from Satèn. but I just think it is lovely in a richer style. 91/100.

Gatti, Franciacorta Brut 2005, Italy
A slightly tired, maybe slightly rotty feeling to the oxidation on the nose here, though the palate comes through beautifully, with rich toast and custard ,delightful apple fruit. So nicely pitched with fresh acidity and a long, poised finish. 89/100.

Ca' del Bosco, Franciacorta Anna Marie Clemente 1995, Italy
Cappuccino, marmalade orange and a fresh herb touches to lighten the nose here as well as a lovely buttery shortbread character. Fine fruit beneath still, and onto the palate real precision, with a twist of endive bitterness and palate of pure citrus. Stays focused and mineral too, with some flecks of tangerine and orange. 93/100.

Ca' del Bosco, Franciacorta 1979, Italy
90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir, disgorged three minutes before tasting! (Watch the video at http://youtu.be/CHIOMl5CDWQ). Beautiful nose. Caramel, cabbage, coffee and tobacco, such beautiful complexity. The palate has seamless freshness and clarity, pinpoints of lemon zest and crisp, racy apple, and that delicious toffee richness again. Long and endlessly elegant. 95/100, and what a treat.

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