|Fattoria Le Pupille is the winery of Elisabetta Geppetti, mother of five and winemaker at this Tuscan estate in the Maremma. Here, Geppetti fashions D.O.C wines like
her Morellino di Scansanos, and I.G.T 'superTuscans', like Saffredi, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante blend, and SolAlto, a dessert wine made from Botrytised Traminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.
I recently tasted the two Morellino di Scansano wines in the Fattoria le Pupille stable, the regular cuvée from 2006 and the single vineyard 'Poggio Valente' from 2004. Poggio Valente comes from a 12-hectare vineyard near Pereta, planted with four Sangiovese clones.
These are very serious and structured wines, the Poggio Velante in particular striking me as a wine that will need considerable time in the cellar to open and soften through the mid-palate. They are undoubtedly very profound expressions of the Morellino di Scansano D.O.C.
the winesFattoria le Pupille (Italy) Morellino di Scansano 2006
Fattoria le Pupille's 'regular' Morellino comes in a bottle closed with a synthetic cork, and is a mostly Sangiovese with some Alicante and black Malvasia. It has a bold, very dark crimson colour and a nose redolent of black cherries and an earthy, even mineral character with just fleeting glimpses of something floral. On the palate this is firm and savoury, with a dark, liquorice-tinged black fruit and a forceful tannin structure that adds grip and intensity. The balance is good, in a wine that is more juicy and approachable than the Poggio Valente when young, but which is still a fairly tight and authoritative style of Sangiovese. Around £10.99, see all stockists on wine-searcher.com