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Tokaji tasting notes

© 2011 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Tokaji.

DISZNÓKŐ

The wines of Disznókő are imported by Champagne & Châteaux. See all UK stockists of Disznókő's wines on wine-searcher.com.

Disznókő, Tokaji Dry Furmint 2010
12.5% ABV. Lovely delicate aromas, with a warmth about them, of some dried apricot and honey, but with a flinty mineral edge. The acidity is striking the palate, with an edge of saltiness and fantastic precision and spark to the persisting dried apricot fruit. Deliciously mouth-watering and moreish, always hinting at that honeyed richness, but never allowing it through. 90/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Furmint Late Harvest 2009
12.5% ABV, 100g/l residual sugar. Has Botrytis, picked at end of harvest and three or four months in barrel. The sweet dried apricot and hint of fig is more pronounced now, with a lovely glace orange fruit, maybe a hint of fresh ginger. Deliciously rich and full on the palate, with masses of grapefruity acidity that shores everything up, with masses of orange and fresh fruit flavours, but that smoky and honeyed richness too. 91/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2007
12.5 ABV, 132g/l residual sugar, 7.2g/l total acidity. Custardy oak dominates at this stage, lots of cream and ripe fruits; pear, peach and citrus. On the palate the silky weight of honey is gorgeous, with toffee and cream, a butterscotch richness and lots of that tea and tobacco character. As always the acidity is delightful; burnt orange and a touch of grapefruit, and huge finish showing spice and delicious lushness, but poise. 93-94/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2006
11.5 ABV, 140g/l residual sugar, 9.3g/l total acidity. More reserved, the oak more subdued, the nose fine with floral and honeysuckle characters showing less of the figgy, marked Botrytis. The palate has a subtle, very concentrated character, with lovely sweetness offset by some toast and bitter orange marmalade, a delightful crispness o the finish with a mineral, event salty tang amongst all the opulence. 95/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2005
12 ABV, 147g/l residual sugar, 11.2g/l total acidity. Considerably darker than the 2006, there is a more oxidised tone here, a little mushroomy note, and some fine vanilla and toast. The fruit has a certain exotic character - a little pineapple note. On the palate full, rich, creamy sweetness with plenty of lemon rind acidity that is quite fat, but clean, and a nice, long finish with spice and vanilla. 92/100

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2004
12.5 ABV, 155g/l residual sugar, 10.5g/l total acidity. Mostly macerated in finished wine. Light golden colour again. Quite a lot of vanilla and an almondy creaminess, some fresh apricot fruit and a little nuttiness. The palate has delightful fruit sweetness: mouth-filling and rich, with a broad base of sweet fruit and some real tang and punch coming through. Lemon and lime clarity to the acidity and finishes with lovely balance, but perhaps just misses the zip and clarity of the best vintages here. 93/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2003
12.5 ABV, 145g/l residual sugar, 8.6g/l total acidity. Creamy nose, with some vanilla and dried apricot, a touch of creamy ground almond and toffee too, plenty of Botrytis. The palate has a lovely cut and clarity despite the hot vintage and relatively low acidity. Beautiful palate-coating lushness and a firm, spice, quite grippy character with concentration and creamy depth, lots of grapefruit and orange pithy grip and clarity, and a lovely wine in a broader style. 94/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2002
13% ABV, 150g/l residual sugar, 10.6g/l total acidity. Really opulent, tropical fruit edges to the fruit, with guava and mango and a slight mushroom and earthy edge, rich baked apple and the creaminess of the oak just nicely integrated and the complex, smoky mineral notes all adding up to huge complexity. The palate is riven with that mineral acidity that really powers through the richness, sweetness and opulence of the vintage. Fabulous toffee richness, lots of orange and ripe, smoky, deep notes of apricot and fig. Fabulous, big, explosive wine with enormous character. 96/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2001
12 ABV, 140g/l residual sugar, 8.4g/l total acidity. Nice mellowing colour, with a gorgeous Botrytis nose showing hints of mushroom and earthiness, but that lovely barley sugar richness and dried apricot fruit character. The palate is fantastic too; those little mushroomy Botrytis notes are there, grounding the wine in a little earthiness, but the balance is lovely, the sweet fruit up against plenty of dry extract concentration and good acidity. Long and very fine. 94-95/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 1993
Browning, toffee colour, with a welter-weight of Botrytis mushrooms, smoke, honey and barely sugar, and lovely acidity - a fabulously punchy wine with terrific verve and tang, the tangerine and orange brightness and great creamy length. 96/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú Kapi Vineyard 6 Puttonyos 2005
12% ABV, 165g/l residual sugar, 10.7g/l total acidity. The single-vineyard Kapi is an all-Furmint cuvée, both for the base must and Aszú berries, a very careful selection from second and third tries. Made by blending the Aszú berries with the fermenting must. Lots of smoky, wonderfully fine mineral notes. Rich dried apricot and fig beneath, a hint of tea and of barley sugar Botrytis. The palate is stunning. It has a beautifully silky, glycerine-rich texture but never cloying, the full sweetness constrained and checked by fantastic depth of minerals and light vanillin oak notes, a touch of tannin and that core of shimmering acidity. 95/100.

Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Zéta 2002
A special cuvée made only from Zéta grapes. Beautiful burnished gold colour. Beautifully mellow but at the same time powerful and fresh aromas of marmalade and quince, a touch of mushroom and lots of subtle floral character. The palate has terrific plush depths, fine sweetness but that bitter orange bite and precision. A lovely wine. 93/100.

Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2002
The regular cuvee, with fabulous orangy richness and beautiful black tea and mineral notes. The palate has delicious clarity and energy, a real shimmering vibrancy missing in the 7eta cuvee. Fabulous lemon zest freshness matching the sweetness and hint of earthy richness. 95/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 2000
12.5 ABV, 162g/l residual sugar, 7.3g/l total acidity. Loads of honey here, loads of light vanilla and smokiness, with caramel and the dry apricot fruit all there in quantity. The palate has lots of glycerine richness, honey and lemon are the driving forces, but there's a fine leaf tea and tobacco note too, delightful balance with the opulence cut by the acidity. Delightful drinking with grip, a nip of tannin too, giving this an enormously long finish. 95/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1999
11.5 ABV, 160g/l residual sugar, 12.6g/l total acidity. A lot darker than the 2000, a caramel edge to the colour and plenty of mushroomy, earthy Botrytis o n the nose. There are little floral - honeysuckle notes - coming through, and some smokiness. The palate shimmers with acidity - this is a gloriously alive vintage, with masses of lemon juice and zest cut and punch, a tang of pink grapefruit, all slicing through the honey and toffee opulence. Fabulous stuff: I really like the precision and clarity of the finish. 96/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1997
11.2 ABV, 162g/l residual sugar, 10.7g/l total acidity. Lovely orange-gold colour. Some smoky minerality comes through here, some vanilla too, and lots of ripe apricot and dried glace fruits. The palate has a lovely clarity too, with orange and very fresh lemon peel all giving tension to the sweet, ripe fruit and honey of the palate. Lovely, refined stuff, perhaps lacking the dynamics of the 1999, but utterly delicious. 95/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1995
11.5 ABV, 146g/l residual sugar, 9.9g/l total acidity. A little caramel to the golden colour. Vanilla and a touch of mint chocolate on the nose, some Botrytis character too with creaminess and a touch of mushroomy quality, but lovely precision. Delightful palate, sesame seeds and toasty richness with a little spice, but the pure, glycerine-smoothed smokiness and richness. An intriguingly smoky and earthy wine, with lovely balance and plenty of sweet allure. 94/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1993
11.75 ABV, 155g/l residual sugar, 10.5g/l total acidity. Burnished gold to tawny, with loads of mushroom and truffle Botrytis, and the caramel richness backing it up, but has a dry essence and smoky minerality. Little vegetal notes of age just add an intriguing note. The palate has loads of earthiness and smokiness, some toffee and chocolate depths to this, a touch of wild mint and balsamic richness, with delightful acidity still: fabulous sweetness, and a terrific core of acid in a most complex picture. And despite the tertiary development, seems very young and hugely tight in the finish. 96-97/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Eszencia 2005
Grapes for this Eszencia came from the Kapi vineyard, only the free run juice bottled with 1% alcohol, 650g/l residual sugar and 20g/l total acidity. Dry, must aroma, with earth and very ashy aromas of the extraordinary extract character. Thick and luscious glycerine and honey, but not treacly or cloying, still that fabulous tangerine and lemon zestiness and a huge finish, extraordinarily bright and focused. Other worldly. 97/100.

Disznókő, Tokaji Eszencia 2000
670g/l residual sugar, 10g/l total acidity. 1.5% ABV. 100% Furmint, the juice coming only from free-run juice from the weight of berries in the barrel, no acid and the native yeast barely ferments the thick, sugar-rich juice. Bottled in April 2004, 470 half bottles. Treacle colour, with haunting aromas of orange and sultana, a rich umami note of seaweed, fantastically complex with black tea. On the palate it is syrupy, with fabulous depth and sweetness of course, but it is the core of acidity that makes it wine-like and grippy, with that Agen prune and raisin sweetness and richness. 97/100, but almost impossible to rate - could be 100/100 for its uniqueness.

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