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2004 Burgundy

by Tom Cannavan, 03/06

This was a tasting of 2004 vintage Burgundy wines at the premises of WoodWinters, a new young wine merchant in the Scottish town of Bridge of Allan. These were samples prepared and sent over from Burgundy by the producers. The 2004 white wines will be finished and bottled blends, whereas the 2004 reds may still be in barrel in some cases. For that reason, there is the usual caveat on all notes that would apply to any unfinished wine.

WoodWinters is currently offering these wines en primeur, at prices around 15% lower than the shelf prices once the wines arrive in this country. To get these prices, please order by April 1st 2006, and contact WoodWinters for shipping dates and further information.

16 Henderson Street
Bridge of Allan
+44 (0)1786 834894

Burgundy 2004 - white wines

Domaine de la Croix Senaillet (France) Saint-Véran 2004
Pretty honeysuckle and floral nose. Quite rich, tropical fruit but cut with good apple and pear sharpness. Nice length and succulence. £8.33

Domaine Cordier (France) Saint-Véran 2004
Extremely oaky, vanillin and toast nose. Plenty of vibrant, racy lemon fruit beneath. Lovely definition finally on the palate and fine length. £13.75

Etienne Sauzet (France) Bourgogne 2004
Sheer minerality and crispness on the nose. Very fine palate. Racy, tight, steely fruit. Crisp and taut throughout. £12.33

Domaine Droin (France) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2004
A touch of oak? Certainly leesy richness. Palate is shot through with racy, crisp, very mineral palate. TBC

Domaine de la Croix Senaillet (France) Saint-Véran 'Les Buis' 2004
Lovely limpid, slightly floral finesse. Little note of ripeness and richness on the palate, but again very racy citrus. Good length and intensity at this price. £9.17

Château de Puligny-Montrachet (France) Bourgogne Blanc 2004
Nutty, Cox's Pippin fruit, very crisp and crunchy. Mouth-watering orange and nutty apple fruit on the palate. Lovely ripeness, if a little dilute in the finish. £12.39

Château Fuissé (France) Pouilly- Fuissé 'Les Combottes' 2004
More reserved nose, not giving much. Lovely dry, underripe pear and melon palate. A nutty richness emerging. Could come good. £17.98

Domaine Droin (France) Chablis Grand Cru Le Clos 2004
Very, very rich and concentrated. Rich leesy quality. Fine weight and lemony fat on the palate. Good weight and intensity here, with a long finish. TBC

Domaine Fichet (France) Meursault 2004
Almost minty quality to the oak, with plenty of new oak. The palate has a racy, crisp quality. Very clean, restrained, citrussy. Good length and a nice balance. £19.65

Château de la Maltroye (France) Chassagne-Montrachet 2004
Subtly vegetal nose, with lovely quality of ripe, apply fruit coming through. Palate is clean and very mineral and fresh. Lovely concentration. Fine length. Very classy wine. £23.22

Château de Puligny-Montrachet (France) Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2004
More honeyed richness and riper, slightly tropical fruit quality here. Packs a lovely punch of minerality, with sweeping, glacial flavours but hinting at mealy richness in the long finish. £36.90

Domaine Fichet (France) Meursault Tesson 2004
New wood notes again, with less expressive nose. Fruit is quite subdued too, without the definition and clarity of the previous wine. £26.07

Michel Niellon (France) Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Chenevottes 2004
Intense, very slightly minty, with good minerality. Fine palate here, with lovely raciness. Fruit is clean and there is lovely length. Good balance too. Very promising. £30.36

Michel Bouzereau (France) Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 2004
A touch of vanilla and a touch of mint leaf. Buttery qualities emerging. The palate has a fine fruit quality. There's a roundness of fat, lemony fruit and fine acidity. Beautiful definition and length. Very impressive. £35.12

Burgundy 2004 - red wines

Domain Digioia-Royer (France) Bourgogne 2004
Clean, crisp, cherry-scented with good fruit. Firm and racy, hinting at real finesse. TBC

Domaine Courcel (France) Bourgogne 2004
Less earthy, but a fruitier, more ripe and juicy quality. Very composed, very solid fruit on the palate. Nicely weighted and concentrated. £13.58

Patrice Rion (France) Bourgogne Rouge 'Les Bons Bâton' 2004
Tight, cherry and mineral, charcoally nose. The palate has a tightly focused feel too, with a nice broadening mid-palate and good tannic background. Better in a year or two. £10.96

Comte Armand (France) Auxey-Duresses 2004
More wood gives some cedary quality, and there's a bloody, ripe quality to the fruit. This has nice definition. Delicious already. Open and well balanced. £20.00

Domaine Arlaud (France) Chambolle-Musigny 2004
Another tight and mineral character to this wine, with little violet touches to very solid fruit. Drinks nicely, without the charm of the Auxey perhaps, but then more structure for ageing. £18.57

Domaine Dujac (France) Chambolle-Musigny 2004
Gives a dry impression of slightly stalkier character, with red fruits and hints of animal notes. The palate has a lovely sense of generosity of fruit. Fine, with a supple tannic background and even a slightly chocolaty hint. Lovely. £20.00

Patrice Rion (France) Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras 2004
There's a ripeness and openness here, with a black fruit sweetness and tight, supple black olive and tight focused fruit. Not quite so charming as some, but will be interesting to re-taste in a year or two. £24.99

Digioia-Royer (France) Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2004
Quite closed, but there's a hint of real concentration and intensity here. Very nice, solid fruit on the palate. Good structure too. Very promising. TBC

Domaine de Courcel (France) Pommard 1er Cru Vaumuriens 2004
A touch volatile, but quality of fruit is there. Quite fine, with nice integration of tannins already. Promising. £25.83

Marquis d'Angerville (France) Volnay 1er Cru Champans 2004
Ripe cherry fruit, a touch of kirsch and chocolate. Refined, if slightly tight. Tightly wound on the palate too, with a big tannic background and hints of animal, earthy qualities. Needs to come together but very promising indeed. £29.88

Comte Armand (France) Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux 2004
There's a fine ripeness and a sense of bright cherry fruit here. Dry and savoury, hints of chestnut and good balance. Very juicy and ripe, and very elegant. Classy. £41.30

Domaine Carre-Courbin (France) Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 2004
A touch volatile, some nutty, peanut husk quality and dry red fruits (redcurrant). Very dry, scrubby, redcurrant and slightly dusty fruit. Not convinced this is quite correct. £27.26

Domaine Digioia-Royer (France) Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Gruenchers 2004
Good fruit here, with a certain herbal, stalky note, but nice and Burgundian. On the palate plenty of racy, pure, quite concentrated fruit. Tannins are supple and there's good cherry acidity. Well balanced. TBC

Domaine Arlaud (France) Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2004
Fine, racy, good cherry fruit. Refined palate. Quite closed, with tight tannins and a closed red/black fruit. Promising but not giving much at present. £25.83

Jacques-Frederic Mugnier (France) Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Clos de Fourches 2004
Very nice fruit quality here, with fine cherry fruit and a dry cranberry and redcurrant quality onto the palate. Decent, but this showing uninspiring. £22.38

Jacques-Frederic Mugnier (France) Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Clos de Marechale 2004
A little more intensity with a dry cranberry and cherry fruit, and slightly more lusciousness. Lovely concentration and richness on the palate with a fine, racy minerality. Much better than previous. £34.00

Domaine Arlaud (France) Gevrey Chambertin 2004
Nice ripe red fruit nose here, with a sense of ripeness and richness beneath mineral restraint. Very nice juicy fruit on the palate too. This has lovely quality. £20.70

Domaine des Lambrays (France) Morey St Denis 1er Cru Les Loups 2004
Touch of volatility. Nutty, peanut husks and a dry cranberry fruitiness. On the palate this has lovely fruit, with a lot of dry tannins swamping at moment, but should improve. £33.81

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze (France) Gevrey Chambertin 2004
Bright, focused cherry fruit. Crisp and mineral. Very dry, dusty, quite austere palate at present, withy a deal of vivid, ripe and concentrated fruit in there. Nice balance here. TBC

Patrice Rion (France) Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur 2004
Quiet closed, with an attractive, dark, quite refined feel to it. On the palate this has a muscularity hidden behind a racy, elegance. A little disjointed, but an interesting one to re-taste. £20.60

Domaine Arlaud (France) Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes 2004
Very refined and racy this, with a lovely taut red fruit and mineral character. Nice savoury cherry skin and plum edge to the fruit here - very ripe and dark, and drinking quite nicely already. £33.33

René Engel (France) Vosne-Romanée 2004
Extremely light colour. Stalky, quite perfumed nose with vegetal notes and a pert red fruitiness. A little sulphury which is detectable on the palate too, but juicy, elegant and promising. £26.07

René Engel (France) Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Brulées 2004
Again a touch of sulphur and a touch of stalky quality. More intensity and a slightly more elegant, ripe fruit. Touches of rose hip and floral. Charcoally and racy, lots of earthy minerality. £35.12

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze (France) Gevrey Chambertin Grand Cru Clos de Beze 2004
This has a lovely nose. It is quite restrained, with quite delicate cherry and rose hip notes, and a lot of finesse already evident. On the palate it is composed and quite elegant, but also has a supple grippy tannin, and there's a beautiful freshness. Very fine. TBC