Part I - 110 white wines and vintage overview
part II - 165 red wines - click here.
Each January London's wine trade turns itself over to showing the wines of the latest Burgundy vintage. These 2001s are on sale now "en primeur"
with a big promotional campaign to back them. By and large the whites have already been bottled, whilst the red wines are about to be bottled in Burgundy
before being shipped. Notes on the red wines in particular therefore, carry the caveat that all "barrel sample" tasting notes should: these are not necessarily finished wines,
and the assessment should be taken on that basis.
Although wine-pages easily offers the largest body of original material added to any UK or world wine site by a single author, when I realised I could not attend "Burgundy week" in London this
year, I resolved that wine-pages visitors would not lose out. I commissioned two of the UK's most trustworthy professionals to do the job for me: Rosemary George MW and Neal Martin.
|Rosemary George MW
Rosemary has, literally, written the definitive text books on many world wine regions including the South of France and, one of her great passions, Chablis. Of the 2001 Chablis Rosemary notes: "2001 was not a great year in Chablis, with a week of wet weather just before the harvest and an indifferent summer. The Côte d'Or did not suffer quite the same problems with rain as Chablis, but it was still not a great summer." However, Rosemary has identified a few producers who have made very good wines in all regions.
Neal is wine buyer for one of the biggest importers of fine wine, specifically Bordeaux and Burgundy, into Japan. Neal holds the WSET Diploma and is a regular taster for Wine magazine panels. He says: "I've marked the wines I recommend with an asterisk. It was intèresting that taking price into account I've tended towards village wines and avoided the 1er crus, but a few Grands Crus were so good that I believe they are genuinely worth the money".
There follows a series of tasting notes on over 110 white wines, presented by stockist where possible. Part II has notes on 165 red wines. Prices are estimated in some cases, and are per dozen bottles "in-bond", so £14 duty per case, plus 17.5% VAT, must be added.
Bouchard Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
* Nose of cut grass. Not intense. Good balance with herbal/mineral notes. Quite full and plump on the finish. Cleanly made. A very good wine in a so-so good vintage in Chablis. 19/25. £120
Bouchard Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru les Clos
Very intense nose: wet sand and granite. Very full-bodied with citrus/lemony notes. Quite spicy on the finish. Good complexity. Another excellent Chablis (under William Fevre label). 21/25. £225
Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
Muted nose. Moderate complexity. Suffers from being commercial in style. Lacks complexity that a 1er Cru demands. Very average. 17/25. £300
Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru les Perrières
Reticent nose: note of shellfish and nuts. Well-balanced. Again, commercial style with a fine strong spicy/walnut palate. A fine wine but expensive. 18/25. £320
Domaine Blain-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Boudriotte
Again, little on the nose. Quite tinny. Palate is Very fine, good definition/concentration. Bitter lemon. Quite powerful. Fine nervosity. Finishes with a flourish. Excellent. 20/25. £190
Domaine Blain-Gagnard Puligny-Montrachet Villages
Very little on the nose. Good intensity on palate but commercial and lacking nuance. Simple citrussy lemon. Blowsy. Grassy on the finish. Lacks P-M`s nervosity. Average. 16/25. £170
Domaine Marquis d`Angerville Meursault 1er Cru Santenots
Faint citrussy fruits on the nose. A little flat and blowsy on the palate. Simple. Lacks depth. Slightly peppery. The oak dominates the wine. Expect more from such a fine producer. 15/25. £195
Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
Again the palate lacks complexity. Obvious. Peach. Full-body. Well-integrated creamy oak. Orange/apricot. Fine early drinking but not the best meursault by any means. 18/25.
Domaine Roger Belland Meursault les Santenots 1er cru - £261.67
Firm nutty nose; ditto on palate. Quite elegant fruit, with firm structure and oak. Long.
Belland Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot le Pitois 1er cru - £214.56
Firm nose; dry firm nutty palate; nicely structured, with firm fruit and potential.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet Villages - £162.67
Firm nutty leafy nose; ditto on palate. Quite elegant
Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet, en Remilly ler cru - £248.00
Elegantly leafy nose; ditto on palate. Elegant fruit; stylish.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine Bouzereau-Gruere Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Chaumées
Very rich pineapple nose. Full and intense but lacks complexity. Peach & apricot notes. Very aromatic & bold. Quite minerally on the finish. Immediate drinking I think. 17/25
Domaine Bouzereau-Gruère Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
Very dumb nose. Stony. Not giving much away. Quite full-bodied but lacks concentration/finesse. Low acidity. A bit blanc and monotonous at the moment. 15/25
Domaine Colin Déleger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes
moderate intensity.citrus lemon. Granite. Fine definition. Palate packed full of citrus lemon/minerals. Fine acidity. Well-balanced. Quite feminine and elegant compared to others. Very good. 19/25
Domaine Denis Boussey Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
Like Monthélie, low aromatics. Bland & monotonous. Touch of anis. Palate is very rich, OTT with walnut/almond notes. But lacks definition and backbone. Average. 17/25
Domaine Denis Boussey Monthélie Villages Blanc
Little on nose. Quite woody and angular. Very odd nougat palate. Funky. Over-oaked. Lacks focus. Reasonable early drinking but nothing more. 15/25
Domaine Denis Boussey Puligny-Montrachet Villages
Nothing on the nose. Palate lacks definition.Very rich - toffee apple. Nougat. Low acidity. Lacks complexity. Pear, apple & nuts on the finish. A bit non-descript though. 16/25
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts
Very intense fruity nose. Cherry & strawberry scents. Hedonistic palate. New Worldy. Very rich and decadent but loses sense of terroir. P-M? Quite off - marked down for atypicity. 18/25
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux
* Rich citrussy/lime nose. Very minerally. Full-bodied intense palate with good acidity. Spicy. Coconut tinged finish. Very well-balanced and superb value. 19/25. £115.94
Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux Meursault 1er Cru La Goutte d`Or
* Very fine walnut nose. Good intensity. Asian spice. Fine definition - Very minerally with rounded roasted nuts. Good acidity/complexity. Long nutty finish. Superb. 21/25. £273.90
Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly
Fine definition on nose. Lemon, pineapple & hedgerow. Mint? Good complexity - granite & minerals. Fine definition. Coconut. moderate length. Very fine. 19/25
Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet Villages
Bland nose. Woody - dried leaves. Quite a lot of creamy oak masking the flavour. Limey. Quite full on the finish. Simple but cleanly made. Not bad value. Fine. 16/25
Domaine Roger Belland Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos Pitois
Strong aromas of cough-candy and citrus fruits. Palate has good definition and well-integrated oak. Quite Meursault in style. Good complexity. Vigorous. Nutty finish. Excellent wine. 20/25
Domaine Roger Belland Meursault 1er Cru Les Santenots
Very little on nose. Lemon. Good definition on palate. Hazelnuts and almonds with a fine spicy finish. But does lack complexity expected of 1er Cru hence low mark. Med term drinking. 16/25
Domaine Roger Belland Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains
Very minerally and typical P-M on nose. Good concentrated Minerals with a hint of toffee. Lots of rich oak here. A little blowsy. Very clean with an attractive minerally finish. 5-8 years. 20/25
Domaine Roger Belland Santenay Villages Blanc
Very muted nose. Pine needles. Very bland palate with simple green appley fruits. Low acidity. Quite one-dimensional. Medium-length. Flat and unexciting. 14/25
Domaine Patrick Javillier Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
* A huge nose: roasted nuts, almonds, peach & pineapple. Very concentrated Fine definition. Full of minerals with a touch of strawberry. Honeyed finish. Decadent grand vin. 8-15 yrs. 22/25. £577.16
Domaine Patrick Javillier Meursault Villages - Clos du Cromin
moderate intensity on nose. Toffee ,even liquorice! Good definition on palate with well-integrated oak. Creamy. Nutty and quite viscous texture. moderate length. Not bad but not great. 16/25
Domaine Patrick Javillier Meursault Villages - Tête de Murger
Nose is much more intense. Minerals & nuts. Fine definition.Very clean with well-integrated oak. Good concentration with a fine citrussy finish. (Bit pricey though at £285.33) 19/25
Visit the BB&R web site.
P et M Guillemot-Michel Mâcon-Villages Quintaine 2001 - £147.70
A rich fat nutty nose and an extraordinarily rich, almost honeyed palate. Rounded and ripe; almost a dessert wine! Wonderfully original.
Maison Champy St-Aubin, Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er cru - £134.50
Quite a firm nutty nose; quite rounded grassy fruit on palate - quite a broad flavour, with a nutty finish.
Maison Champy Meursault 1er cru les Cras - £225.50
A hintense buttery on nose; quite a rich textured palate with layers of flavour, oak, body and buttery fruit.
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet - £210.00
Some delicate oak on nose; quit grassy leesy flavour with good acidity. Long.
Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru les Perrières - £287.40
Firm nose; tight structured fruit. Firm with layers of flavour to develop. Tight knit palate.
Domaine Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet blanc - £159.00
Tight closed nose; ditto on the palate, firm and structured but with fine potential.
Chassagne-Montrachet blanc 1er cru Les Vergers - £215.00
Firm nose, closed. Tight structured palate; good structure and again great potential.
Les Héritiers des Comtes Lafon Mâcon - Milly @ £102.00
A firm leafy nose, replicated on the palate with good acidity and a dry leesy finish.
Domaine Laurent Tribut Chablis- £110.00
A firm nose, with dry leafy fruit on nose and palate. Softer than some of the Côte d'Or wines but with good length.
Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er cru Beauroy - £120.00
Firm tight fruit on nose; a more structured palate than the Chablis, but quite forward with good body and weight.
Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er cru Côte de Léchet - £129.00
Closed lightly buttery nose; firm dry leesy fruit on palate; some body and firm dry finish.
Domaine Dauvissat-Camus Chablis 1e cru Vaillons - £157.00
Closed nose, with a firm unforthcoming palate, but with some concentration of flavour. Should develop well, with a long finish.
Dauvissat-Camus Chablis la ForÍt, 1er cru - £193.00
Quite a rich nose, more forward than the Vaillons, riper with more obvious concentration.
Dauvissat-Camus Chablis, les Clos, grand cru - £310
Firm closed nose; quite sturdy firm fruit, with some substance on the palate. Promises well. Aged for six months in mainly old wood.
Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet, TÍte du Clos 1er cru - £297.00 Quite rounded lightly buttery fruit, with good acidity and a freshness on the finish.
Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet, la Romanée, 1er cru - £297.00 Quite firm mineral nose, and the same mineral notes on the palate. Appealingly elegant
Vincent Dancer Meursault les Perrières - £340.00 Firm concentrated, but elegant mineral nose and palate. Very stylish and subtly rich.
Domaine Albert Grivault Meursault - £193.00
Quite a leafy oaky nose, quite rich palate, with layers of ripe fruit and flavour. Good body. Should develop well.
Albert Grivault Meursault Clos des Perrières, 1er cru - £439.00
An elegant nose, nicely harmonious and rounded on the palate. Nicely knit-together.
Domaine JN Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet, les Chenevottes 1er cru - £285.00
Firm structured nose; ditto on the palate with good acidity and a tightly knit finish.
Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet les Folatières, 1er cru - £529.00
Quite rounded nose, with firm leesy elegant fruit on the palate, balanced with good acidity.
Etienne Sauzet Bâtard-Montrachet, grand cru - £1133.00
Closed nose; very subtle understated fruit; discreet, harmonious and elegant.
Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Blanc - £97.00
Quite rich, smoky flinty nose and palate, with a certain leesy taste on the palate.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Very clear. Faint/floral notes. Backward. Palate is intense, tight. Apricot and petrol. Very complex but this will take years to come round. Superb. 21/25
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Chardonnay
* Very clear. Limpid. Simple citrussy nose. Honeyed. Very powerful, minerally palate with fine complexity. This is superb quality for a Bourgogne Blanc. Very good. 19/25. £121.00
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garennes
Pale straw. Restrained wet pavement nose. Well-balanced. Fine complexity. Smooth. Fine acidity. Limestone & lemon zest. Very strong finish. Superb wine. 21/25
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
Limpid. Very restrained nose. Limestone. Palate is Very intense with quince, lemon/orange zest. Seems a little more obvious than Garenne. 5-8 years. 21/25
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
Pale lemon. A little simpler than Garenne. Hedgrow. Grass. Refined palate. Elegant. Lacks the power of Garenne. More understated. Touch of peach on the finish. Needs time. 20/25
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Villages
Clear. Very floral nose. Roses. Spring dew. Very generous and open on the palate. Lemon/granite. Quite opulent with an attacking spicy finish. Very vibrant. Superb. 20/25
Domaine Follin-Arbelet Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Pale straw. Rounded, supple citrus nose. Banana. Less complex than Javillier. Very rounded minerally palate. Peach & lemon notes. Good definition. Interesting but not profound. 19/25
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Pale lemon. As usual, nose is Very backward and dumb. Palate is intense with citrussy fruits. Very fine acidity. More feminine and elegant than 00. Touch of apricot on the finish. 8-15 yrs. 22/25
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
Pale lemon. Nose is again backward. Peach and peardrops. Very good definition on palate. Very minerally and fine complexity. Well-integrated oak. Very elegant with a "wet pavement" finish. P-M style. Superb. 21/25
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées
Very pale/neutral colour. Restrained nose. Faint mineral/apple but not much intensity. Some SO2 on the palate with a bitter lemon finish. Maybe this will improve but I`m not sure. 17/25
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes
Pale straw. Green tinge. Excellent definition on nose: apple/pear. Cut grass. Rich minerally palate. Finish falls away a little. moderate length. 3-6 years for this. Very fine. 20/25
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet les Masures
Pale straw. Very intense citrussy nose. Lavender. Powerful, intense, citrussy palate. Peach. Not complex but good acidity and definition. 3-4 years for this. Very good. 19/25
Domaine Laurent Tribut Chablis
moderate straw colour. Quite a rich peardrop scented nose but the palate is a let-down. Dilute, bland with little complexity. Below average. 13/25
Domaine Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er Cru Clos de Léchet
Quite grassy on nose. Hedgerow/some violets. But again the palate is very disappointing. Lacks vigour and complexity. Very weak on the finish. Poor. 14/25
Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny
Very pale lemon. Quite bland on nose. Touch of lemon/orange peel. Again, well-integrated oak. Quite spicy. Lacks the finesse of a 1er Cru and still too pricey. 17/25
Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux
Light straw colour. Simple apricot, grapefruit nose. Not complex. Good concentration on palate but lacks definition and nervosity. Nice peppery finish. Prefer the 2000. 18/25
Domaine Morey Blanc Meursault Villages - Les Narvaux
moderate lemon colour. Good intensity on nose. Walnuts. Palate is soft with almond & coconut notes. Touch of strawberry on the finish. Not long-term but very well-made. Excellent. 20/20
Lucien Denizot Montagny 1er Cru Le Vieux Château
* Very pale lemon. Nose is lush and peachy. Very attractive. Good concentration with lemon/apricot notes. Good complexity. Engaging with a sensuous oaky finish. Very impressive and great value at £100/cs 19/25. £102.00
"Both Fèvre and Bouchard are now owned by the Henriot empire. These wines have improved enormously, showing finely crafted flavours in a relatively difficult year. Good steely acidity and mineral fruit. Several of the premiers crus seem quite forward and would make enjoyable drinking now, before going into their customary adolescent phase, from which they will take three or four years to emerge. The grands crus have more concentration and are currently less charming than the premiers crus. They will certainly repay some bottle ageing. Domaine William Fèvre have holdings in all the grands crus vineyards except Blanchots".
Chablis 1er Cru Montmains
Firm, flinty palate. Quite elegant with good mineral notes.
Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu
Delicate flinty nose. Quite firm mineral fruit on palate, with good acidity and ageing potential.
Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Quite firm oaky nose; with oak much more apparent on the palate. Elegant with good acidity and some weight. Balanced. Should develop well.
Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, Vignoble de Vaulorent
Firm steely nose; ditto on palate, with elegant mineral notes. An elegant finely crafted palate.
Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles
Firm structured nose, with good acidity and a firm backbone on the palate. Some understated oak, with layers of flavour to develop.
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Quite a rounded nose, with some oak. Understated concentration on the palate; firm and structured with some weight and body.
Chablis Grand Cru les Clos
Quite a solid dense nose; with closed firm fruit and dry oak on the palate. Firm stony mineral fruit, with firm acidity. Should develop well.
Bouchard Père et Fils
Rully les Thivaux
Light nose, with fresh lemony fruit and some acidity.
Beaune Clos Saintense Landry ler cru, monopole
Quite firm nutty nose, with rich oaky fruit and a rounded palate.
Firm closed nose; attractive grassy lightly leesy fruit, with good acidity.
Meursault, le Poruzot, ler cru
Lightly oaky nose, with quite obvious oak on palate. Quite study and still very youthful.
Meursault Perrières, ler cru
Closed nose; firm study mineral fruit; and on palate a combination of minerality and oak. To develop.
Corton Charlemagne, grand cru
Quite an elegant nose; dry firm palate,w with some mineral notes and good acidity. Should develop.
Domaine Denis Boussey Bourgogne Blanc - £54
A great start to the tasting. Quite a rich leafy nose; rounded leafy fruit on palate, balanced with good acidity.
Domaine Marius-Delarche Pernand-Vergelesses - £84
Elegant grassy nose; ditto on palate, with firm elegant fruit and good acidity. Long.
Domaine Larue St.-Aubin ler cru les Cortons - £98
Firm nose, structured dry grassy palate with oaky undertones. Nicely balanced.
Domaine Larue St.-Aubin ler cru En Remilly - £114
Elegantly grassy nose; ditto on palate, elegant with underlying oak.
Château de Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé - £155
Firm nose; quite firm structured palate. Quite tight knit with good concentration.
Vincent Girardin Meursault ler cru les Porozots-Dessus - £189.00
Quite elegant nose, and ditto on the palate with acidity and layers of flavour.
Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet, les Enseignères - £159.00
Very elegant grassy nose; ditto on the palate and quite stylish.
Domaine Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet, les Enseignères - £189.00
Quit firm closed nose; quite elegant herbal oaky notes on the palate. An intriguing contrast with the previous wine.
Domaine Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet, ler cru Champgains - £265.00
Quite rounded nose; quite elegant firm leafy fruit. Should develop nicely.
Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet, ler cru Chaumées - £275.00
Quite firm nutty leesy nose; ditto on palate, quite firm fruit with good potential.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine des Morats St.-Véran
* From the makers of Chateau Fuissé, whose own wines represent stunning value. Still a little SO2 on the nose. Lovely balance and nervosity with crisp apple/mineral notes. As good as a 1er Cru Puligny! 20/25
Ch. de Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé "Les Combettes"
* A massive wine which you would swear is a Puligny in a blind tasting. Stunning definition with well-integrated Old oak. Crisp citrussy finish. Unbelievable value at £137.00
Domaine de l'Arlot NSG blanc, Jeunes Vignes Clos de l'Arlot - £225.00
Quite rounded grassy fruit on nose; elegant rounded fruit, balanced with oak. Long
V & F Jouard Chassagne-Montrachet, ler cru, la Maltroie - £258.00
Quite a milky nose; dry nutty palate; layers of fruit. Intriguing.
Guy Amiot Chassagne-Montrachet, ler cru, les Macherelles - £270.00
Elegant grassy nose; ditto on palate, with elegant oak.
Colin-Déleger Chassagne-Montrachet, ler cru En Remilly - £327.00
Closed nose; quite elegant nutty fruit. Seems remarkably forward. Long and elegant.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine Guy Amiot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champgains
Nose is shutdown. Well-structured with find acidity. Palate laced with almonds. Bitter lemon. Like Marechelles, not powerful, but delicate and refined. Minerally finish. Delicious. 20/25
Domaine Guy Amiot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles
Very muted nose. Hints of lavender. Sweet floral palate. Very feminine. moderate acidity. Lovely balance. Touches of lemon peel and cherries. Very charming and flattering to the palate. 19/25
Domaine Colin Deleger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées
Very simple nose. Notes of pineapple. Palate is somewhat one-dimensional now. Lemon, citrus fruits. Not as subtle as Amiot. But quite strong on the finish. Fine. 18/25
Domaine de L`Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de l`Arlot
Intense minerally nose. Fine definition. Puligny-like. Very smooth palate with well-intense oak. Steely on the finish. Very well balanced. Should develop beautifully in 3-4 year. Impressive. 21/25
Domaine de L`Arlot Nuits St. Georges Jeunes Vignes du Clos de L`Arlot
Fragrant limes and apples on the nose. Quite powerful with moderate acidity. Quite Meursault in style with dollops of creamy oak. Turns more minerally on the finish. Decadent wine. 19/25
Domaine Paul Pernot Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Moderate nose. Granite, wet pavement. Melting snow (like outside!) Coconut? Lovely balance. Lemon, apple & lime. Quite dense. Not amazingly complex. Quite backward. Good potential. 21/25
Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault Villages
Clear colour. Musky/lime apple nose. Very aromatic on the palate. Good balance. Soft and supple. citrussy with white pepper on the finish. Fine. 18/25
Domaine Vincent & Francois Jouard Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Big apply nose. Simplistic. Touch of honey. But palate shows signs of slight corkiness. Muffled flavours with a lack of definition on the finish. Needs retasting. 17/25