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 These are notes from an organised tasting events of some sort. Every note is dated, and prices and UK stockists for wines are given where known. |
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tastings back to features Bordeaux Databank |
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This is a report on Bordeaux 2003, based on trade and press tastings held in Bordeaux from 29th March to 2nd April 2004. Marcus Edwards was there
to cover the event for wine-pages, and assess the quality of this vintage, which saw extreme weather patterns in the region. As the "en primeur" campaign offering these
wines for sale as "futures" starts to hit its stride, Marcus highlights the best-performing wines from his extensive tastings.
Everybody in Europe will remember the summer of 2003. Whilst in the UK we struggled to cope with extremes of heat most of us had never experienced before, The bemused Bordelais scratched their heads - the history books had never before recorded such an unrelenting heatwave. But still the estates had to produce wines worthy of their reputation. Have they succeeded? In some cases the answer is a resounding yes. 2003 is not an "across the board" great vintage like 2000, but there are indeed some great wines.
Indeed, in these three appellations it became difficult to taste an 'average' classed growth wine. The wines here really are quite exceptional. The Cabernet Sauvignon grape performed superbly in the hot conditions, due to its skin being much thicker in comparison to the Merlot grape. Those that were not panicked into picking too early, because sugar levels had soared, have been rewarded. The extra hanging time allowed for true phenolic ripeness; ripeness of stalks, pips and skins. The best wines of 2003 have concentration and power, but they are also very fresh, well balanced and show classic Bordeaux structure. Acidity is lower than average, but Bordeaux has often made great wines in hot, dry years, including 1990, '89, '82, '59, '47, '45, '29 and '28.
In Margaux, the Graves and the southern Médoc, the quality of the vintage is slightly more mixed. Whilst some good wines have been produced, buyers should take
more care to seek recommendations from their merchant. For Sauternes, the wines will be approachable young and have a softness to them, intermingled with high
levels of sweet fruits. On the right bank, however, good wines are harder to find. In some cases it becomes apparent that the thinner skins of the Merlot grape could not cope with the record heatwave. The clay-limestone soils of St Emilion fared better than in Pomerol overall, where the latter's soil was generally unable to provide enough water for the vines.
Best of Bordeaux 2003
The first 2003 en primeur releases are currently finding their way to market. These are the best wines we tasted in Bordeaux, with a score awarded out of a possible 25 marks.
The en primeur campaign from wine merchants across the world is just starting to take off, as the first prices for these wines begin to be released. wine-pages will be providing
a databank of offers from the leading UK merchants, including, of course Marcus Edwards' Albany Vintners.
See the report on the 2002 vintage
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