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Bolyki Cellars, Eger

text and photographs © 2008 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Eger, Hungary.

white wines

Bolyki Late Harvest Harslevelu 2005
Interesting nose with plenty of burnt toast and honey notes, a little lemon that is fat and waxy, and a touch of nutty oxidation. Dry on the palate, with a lovely quality of ripe but dry pear and melon, and those little toasty qualities. Delightful and unusual. 90/100. Around £7.00 locally.

Bolyki Late Harvest Harslevelu 2006
The label changed from silver in 2005 to gold in 2006 to indicate a sweeter style of wine. More honey and some sesame seed character with little nutty and spicy notes. The palate here is off-dry, with dried apricot and honey and a lovely acidity. Warming, spicy toast in the finish. 89/100. £10 locally.

Bolyki Királyleányka 2007
Quite an assertive very slightly oxidised style, with nutty overtones and a fairly dry, lemon peel palate. Balanced and tangy, in a fairly powerful style that reminds me of Georgian whites like Mtsvane, or the whites of Josko Gravner in Friuli. 87/100

red wine

Bolyki Kekfrankos 2005
There's an extra label on this wine that translates as 'Can't hear, Can't talk' and money from its sale goes to disadvantaged children. It is sold only at the cellar door, for around £10 equivalent. It has a nicely fresh cherry character with a touch of cedar and a really soft, voluptuous fruity appeal. The palate has a little more of the lean, typical Kekfrankos character, but this stays quite silky and delicious. 89/100.

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