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Luxembourg tasting notes

text and photographs © 2008 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Luxembourg.

Domaine Mme Aly Duhr

Domaine Mme Aly Duhr et Fils Pinot Gris Machtum Hohfels 2005
Intense, fairly closed, but a definite schisty minerality. Pear and crisp orchard fruit character comes through. The palate has lovely balance, with the sweetness and suggestion of honeyed ripeness playing against a nicely pitched core of acidity - not just pithy, but something quite waxy, fat and lemony, but balanced and taut. 90/100

Domaine Madame Aly Duhr Pinot Gris Grand Premier Cru 2002
Sumptuous nose of honey, oatmeal and crushed almond, with creaminess and a soft pear and stone fruit character. Limpid, mineral palate, with that dry fruit character but such a burgeoning richness and ripeness that it fleshes the whole picture out. Lovely stuff that is racy and grippy, yet luscious. More clay soils give this richness as opposed to the chalk of Mon Vieux Moulin. 91/100

Domaine Madame Aly Duhr Pinot Gris Grand Premier Cru 1989
Plenty of pink/gold colour. Fabulous nose with caramel and vanilla pod notes, and masses of nutty, rich, almost figgy fruit. The palate is dry, with an orangy note to the fruit, with some waxy, smoky edges and that big, pithy minerality in the finish that is dry and mouth-watering. Fabulous stuff. 91/100

Domaine Madame Aly Duhr Riesling Domaines et Tradition 2005
Clear, pure minerality here, with lightly salty and waxy notes, but mostly a focus on pure lemon and crisp underripe apple fruit. The palate has really good fruit with plenty of fat, waxy lemon fruit bursting though, but then immediately constrained by that minerality. 89/100

Domaine Madame Aly Duhr Riesling 1986
Lovely minerality here, with tiny nuances of petrol an plenty of schisty, waxy, nectarine skin and Tamarillo character. Bone dry, with elegant, clean white fruit and lemon, but really driven by intense minerality. Tasted on its own like this, a touch austere perhaps, but this just needs some food as the length and structure is superb. 90/100

Domaine Madame Aly Duhr Riesling 1997
Beautiful minerality here, with fat lemon, beeswax and a touch of lime, in amongst very crisp acidity. Palate too has some fat and sweet fruit, with lovely weight. Balanced and really delicious, a little peachy tropicality developing in the finish, with lovely balance. 89/100

Domaine Madame Aly Duhr Auxerrois 'Montée des Seigneurs' 2005
A late-harvested wine, aged one year in older barriques. Expressive, nutty nose, with plenty of range peel and orange blossom, and some spice and nutty vanilla. On the palate, quite luscious, with delightful, crisp character, and a really pithy, dry minerality. This has plenty of grip and a touch of tannin, waxiness. Not so fresh and crisp on the finish as the palate, but structured and layered. 89/100

Domaine Madame Aly Duhr Riesling Vin de Glace 2004
Very fruity, with citrus and peachy fruit, honey. Fleshy and fat, sweet, peach flesh character in the palate, with more sweetness apparent than in the Aly Duhr wine, more vibrancy and punch, but ultimately less complexity. An immediately rewarding wine, and delicious. 89/100

Domaine Madame Aly Duhr
9 rue Aly Duhr
L-5401 Ahn

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