text and photographs © 2007 Tom Cannavan
These notes accompany our in-depth feature on Biodynamic Alsace
Albert Mann (France) Pinot Gris Grand Cru Furstenheim 2004
Absolutely fabulous nose, laden with nutty, herbal and honey-laced fruit. A deal of sesame seed, toasty new oak, but such rich, opulent fruit. The palate is very much like a young Burgundy, with that nutty apple quality,
a background of toasty oak, and a wonderful orangy acidity counteracting ripe fruit sweetness. A touch of minerality in the acid quality too. A lovely, lovely wine.
Albert Mann (France) Pinot Noir de la Faille 2004
There are also a couple of top Pinots in the Mann portfolio from Grand Cru vineyards, but Pinot is not entitled to Grand Cru status, so the Pinot Noir from Grand Cru Hengst is labelled 'Grand H' for example. This non-Grand Cru
wine has a lovely nose: quite stinky and Burgundian, with a touch of sulphide quality, but earthy, damp leaves and some vegetal qualities. There's a cherry edge to the fruit that carries though onto the palate, with a
delicate minerality too and a fine, silky tannin quality. Lovely Pinot that is svelte and poised, with real character.
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