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Tasting notes from Austria

text and photographs © 2013 Tom Cannavan

These notes accompany our in-depth feature on the Wines of Austria.

Weingut Harkamp, Styria

There is no UK importer for Weingut Harkamp at time of writing.

Sparkling Wines

Weingut Harkamp, Gelber Muskateller Sekt, Austria
Like all of Harkamp's Sekts this is made by the Champenoise method and spends eight months on yeast. This has really fresh, grapey aromas and the herb and floral essence of the variety is clear. Only gently sparkling, the mousse is crisp and it has fresh acidity. Very clean apple flavours, it is easy drinking but crisp and dry. 86-87/100. 12.70€ locally

Weingut Harkamp, Rosé Brut Sekt, Austria
100% Pinot Noir, this is made by adding 10% of still Pinot Noir to the blend. Lovely soft cherry- peach colour after one year on lees. Nice Pinot earth and strawberry. Very crisp fruit, less than 5g/l dosage. Lovely fruit sweetness comes through, and it is long and racy, fresh raspberry bite and bone dry in the finish. 88/100. 14.50€

Weingut Harkamp, Brut Reserve Zero Dosage 2010, Austria
The blend is 60%, Pinot Noir with Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, but Hannes is gradually upping the Pinot content. Dry and delicate aromas, delicate floral and a touch of herbs and apple. The mousse is delicate too and rolling, then that cool precision of the absolutely dry fruit pushes through. Long, refined and deliciously fresh. 90/100. 18.90€

Weingut Harkamp, Brut Reserve 2010, Austria
Hannes was kind enough to present a vertical tasting of every vintage he has made since beginning five years ago. This has only around 5g/l dosage, but is otherwise the same wine as the 'Zero'. Seems a little creamier on the nose, but the palate is just as racy, just a little sweetness to fatten the finish. 89-90/100.

Weingut Harkamp, Brut Reserve 2009, Austria
Developing more biscuit and yeasty notes, still clear apple fruit character, the fruit on the palate super sweet and ripe. There is a clear, fresh finish with lots of juicy, lime-like tang in the finish and a pleasing saltiness. 88-89/100.

Weingut Harkamp, Brut Reserve 2008, Austria
There is ripeness and lightly smoky, lightly vanilla notes with a touch of nectarine given more ripeness and fullness. The palate also has a powerful fruit body and character. The sweetness seems more apparent here, but mostly from the fruit rather than dosage. 88/100.

Weingut Harkamp, Brut Reserve 2007, Austria
Lovely racy character here, a touch of earthiness and racy lemon and apple. Gentle yeastiness. Long, dry and a point, the racy freshness and mineral quality is delicious. 90/100.

Weingut Harkamp, White Love 2013, Austria
Made mainly for the hotel, for weddings, from Müller Thurgau and Sauvignon Blanc and only 11.5% abv. Nicely aromatic, very fresh and racy, lots of citrus and a nice elderflower freshness, plenty of tangerine and orange tang. 85-86/100.

Weingut Harkamp, Gelber Muskateller Flamberg 2012, Austria
Lots of richness with the floral and herbal note of geranium and rose, and plenty of ripe melon skins. The palate has nice texture and weight, but the suggestion of mid palate fatness is soon swept up in a clear, fresh and pithy acidity. 89/100. 12.00€

Weingut Harkamp, Sauvignon Blanc Flamberg 2012, Austria
Made in stainless steel, this has a light yeastiness and soft aromatics, more apple than anything greener or more tropical, but the ripe fruit sweetness on the mid palate blossoms. Lots of peachy sweetness, quite full. With a racy lemon zest and grapefruit dryness. 89/100. 13.50€

Weingut Harkamp, Morillon Flamberg 2012, Austria
The local name for Chardonnay. Really expressive, ripe Chardonnay nose. Made in 1500-litre casks, it has nutty malolactic creaminess, though Hannes says only 20% went through malo. A little green fig note of ripeness beneath. Fermented with wild yeast, there's a really nice lemony sourness that fills the palate, sharpening into fresh biting citrus and apple in the finish. 88-89/100. 12.50€

Weingut Harkamp, Sauvignon Blanc Kogelberg 2012, Austria
From a single vineyard. Nice tight, green, slatey and mineral aromas. Racy lemon freshness. Dry and searingly citrussy on the palate, this has real concentration and so much sour apple and pink grapefruit cut and acidity. 90/100. 20.30€

Weingut Harkamp, Grauburgunder Oberburgstall 2012, Austria
From vines planted in 1985 at around 400 metres. Honeyed richness, the creamy and nutty, almond fat of the wine is inviting. Beautifully refined palate, the fruit sweetness and a little 5g/l of sugar gives a pleasing weight and fat, but it has a clean finish showing some of the mineral character. 91/100. 20.30€

Weingut Harkamp, Pinot Noir 2011, Austria
Made in older barriques. Smoky, creamy cherry and bramble and a touch of charriness, nice briary, a lightly curranty character just a touch overripe perhaps. The sweetness of the fruit plays against a tiny charry note from the oak. Tannins are refined, the modest acidity marrying with spice in the finish. 87/100.

Weingut Harkamp, Pinot Noir 2012, Austria
More cool, racy aromatics, then a touch of resinous oak comes through. Much fresher fruit on the palate: a raciness here, with raspberry freshness to the fruit. Plenty of fine acidity with an orangy tang. 88/100. 15.90€

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